Lush Heritage

Celebrating a conservation-leaning approach to living well and the DIY spirit.

Lush Heritage Holidays: A Relaxed, Rustic Christmas

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This year, I took a very relaxed approach to my exterior Christmas décor. That meant re-using last year’s decorations, re-purposing items with rustic burlap, and leaving most outbuildings undecorated. The whole effort was quick and inexpensive, and the understated result reflects my mood at year-end in a satisfying way.

I waited to post these photos, hoping that we’d get some snow after I put up this year’s decorations in mid-December.  It finally arrived, on Christmas Eve morning. It now looks like a proper New England Christmas.

The Barns

For the barn closest to the main house, I used last year’s grapevine wreath and simply attached a new bow. I am still on my jewel-tone kick for exterior Christmas decorations and do love the rich, deep red of the flocked velvet bow. It’s a fantastic pop of color that I like even more than last year’s purple.

This project was superfast to complete since I took only one trip to the garden center for the bow then one trip up and down a stepladder to pin it on the wreath. I never removed the wreath after last year’s Christmas since it’s so heavy and when left plain it almost disappears against the barn.

The other barn is unadorned this year, but it’s still a beauty. Here’s a “shy” shot of it in the distance, taken today, on Christmas Eve:

The Houses

For the front entrance to the main house and the little house, I wanted something other than a traditional wreath or garland. I settled on two four-foot Christmas trees, which worked well for several reasons: they have a properly-scaled, lovely presence that can be ornate or subdued – both choices are festive. They’re also less expensive, much easier to transport, and require fewer lights and decorations than large trees.

To keep things pretty and limit the color palette, I wanted a fabric-covered base and planned to use either five-gallon plastic containers that were stored in the barn or planters that I’d used this spring and summer. The trees were so full that the plastic containers just looked too small. Also, their mouths were so narrow that it would have been too difficult to place a tree stand inside. My sister lent me the perfect choice: her plastic planters that she’d used this year to grow tomatoes.

Choosing the fabric took a bit longer than I thought it would though I limited myself to a few online searches and one trip to the fabric store. Ultimately, I decided to keep everything simple and rustic and selected burlap. It’s relatively inexpensive, rugged, and the store had a burlap ribbon whose color matched the flocked velvet merlot bows that I was going to re-use.

It took my sister and me about twenty minutes to wrap each planter and set up each tree. That may not sound like a laid-back approach, but it really is when compared to what I was contemplating in early November. We secured the burlap with duct tape and big binder clips, hidden in the back. The toppers are the bows that I used on the barn wreaths last Christmas.

The Main House

This tree is centered on the top step at the front door. It’s completely unprotected from the elements so we staked it to the ground on either side, using twine and narrow wooden posts. It has swayed in vicious winds but remained upright. We wrapped the tree in small, warm-white faceted lights which up-light the house and the two merlot bows with gold backing – an unanticipated and beautiful flourish.

Yes, the house needs to be painted!

The Little House

This wee gem is undergoing protracted renovations, but it still deserves a touch of the holiday spirit. Although it has a covered porch which offers a fair amount of protection, the tree that I placed on the porch fell over a few times in high winds. Its trunk was too narrow to fit firmly within the tree stand so we used various sticks as shims. It has since remained upright for the past couple of weeks despite some very blustery days and nights. We wrapped the tree in small, gold faceted lights which provide an even warmer glow than the warm white that I really like.

About a week later, I added a juniper swag festooned with merlot ribbon that I bought last year. I think the swag would look better if I’d placed it lower and hung it by the ribbon, but I’m enjoying it just as it is.

Merry Christmas! Wishing everyone a safe and happy holiday season.

Decluttering a Triangle of Trees

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As you know, I am a very big fan of old trees – maple, birch, willow, linden, to name a few. Mature specimens of many of my favorites dot the property. Luckily, I can enjoy their unparalleled beauty through virtually every window in the house. I’m very grateful to the prior owners of the past 200+ years who cared for these trees so they could reach their full potential or who selected species of trees that have so enhanced my little patch of green.

Keeping these trees clear of underbrush and vines is an ongoing priority as they add a graceful grandeur to the property that I doubt any manmade feature could.

Two weeks ago, I finally cleared beneath a stately old maple that lies west of the house and fire pond. 

Doing so emphasized two nearby accent trees, a golden arborvitae and bald cypress that together with the maple form a lovely triangle. One that was overdue to be decluttered.

The Maple

It’s one of the grandest trees here and has survived decades of vicious New England weather with very little damage. However, an unsightly “bracelet” of underbrush had grown beneath it, diminishing its presence. I strongly believe that a tree trunk should be largely unobstructed in order to properly showcase the tree.

It took only two hours to cut and remove the unwanted vegetation. I was very pleased with the result which is shown in the featured image for this post.

Why did it take me three and a half years to finally do this? Well, a major reason is that I was worried about cutting any deliberate understory plants. I could identify only invasive bittersweet and burning bush and a deciduous azalea which was almost completely hidden by mystery greenery (even when loaded with gorgeous lilac blossoms). Fortunately, my two neighbors whom I’ve known for most of my life are very knowledgeable gardeners and have been answering my gardening questions.

Green Trash vs. Green Treasure

Two weeks ago, one of them kindly walked with me around the maple and identified the only other keeper hiding the trunk:  fothergilla. I’d never heard of it, couldn’t remember it looking or smelling spectacular and would have cut it, if she hadn’t told me what it was.

Based on my quick research: fothergilla is a shade-tolerant North American native and has wonderfully fragrant bottlebrush-like white flowers in spring; it also pairs well with azaleas and rhododendrons. I don’t know which variety grows here, but given its size I suspect it’s Fothergilla Major (Mountain Witch Alder). If that’s what I have, it’s also the recipient of the Cary Award which recognizes outstanding plants that thrive in New England. As I’ve noted in other posts, I think it’s a good idea to postpone cutting a plant until you know what it is! Of course, if the plant poses an imminent threat, then it should be removed as soon and as safely as possible.

What else did my neighbor identify? Invasive honeysuckle. As soon as she said it, I was itching to cut it to the ground! No doubt, it and the burning bush had outcompeted the fothergilla. As we pushed back the invasives we also discovered lovely stonework, a clump of yuccas, and what appeared to be a type of geranium (or, possibly violet) ground cover. Such lovely surprises. We’re both eagerly awaiting next spring to see what other desirable plants may be growing there.

No Herbicide Yet

In this location, I would have preferred to eradicate the invasives permanently by dabbing the cut stems with an herbicide that I’ve had great success using. However, once plants go dormant in the fall, they likely absorb less herbicide, rendering it much less effective. Cutting and dabbing is slow work so when I do it, it needs to count. That means spring and summer. Also, my tree guys were scheduled to be here in a few days to do another big job of sawing and chipping leaning dead trees and big cracked branches, so I wanted to clear as much as I could before their arrival. They chip and remove everything – or, at my request, dump the chips in a big pile at the edge of a hayfield.

Golden Arborvitae (of Some Sort)

Once I begin clearing around one tree, I seem to see underbrush and fallen or dangling dead branches everywhere.

After I cleared around the maple, I examined the nearby golden arborvitae. I don’t know the exact type, but it’s about twenty feet tall with an oval shape. It was a mess.

The poor thing was swamped with bittersweet on top and crowded by aging lilacs at the bottom. I hadn’t really noticed the tree until my neighbor pointed it – and its snapped branch – out to me.

I regret not removing the bittersweet vines when I bought the property; their heaviness likely contributed to the central leader succumbing to one of last year’s snowfalls.

Many lilacs were growing almost parallel to the ground. My neighbor identified them, but I’ve forgotten their name. She also told me that they had stopped blooming some time ago; she has the same ones growing on her property and they have also petered out. I cut the lilacs to two feet, in the hopes that they will generate new growth that I can keep at about six feet tall.

The Remains

As soon as my tree guys cut and hauled away the refuse, the shape of the remaining arborvitae was evident. Sadly, I could see that at least one-third of the central leader had been lost, bent beneath a blanket of bittersweet. A few branches had been badly damaged as well, leaving one side somewhat sheared. The photos below show the dead leader section (with berry-laden bittersweet) next to the surviving arborvitae; the lilacs, prior to cutting; the tree from different angles; and the awful jungle of thick bittersweet snaking out of the ground and onto the arborvitae. I hope this upland neighbor of the maple can recover over time and may consult with an arborist to improve its chances.

Bald Cypress

The golden arborvitae’s dramatic reveal led me to survey the surrounding area. What else could I cut while my tree guys were here to haul it away? I settled on one of the two biggest bald cypresses. Its splaying trunk was hidden by weeds, and a few bittersweet vines had climbed almost to the top of the tree. Just ten minutes of cutting resulted in another welcome sight:

Later this fall or winter I will cut the bittersweet from the other trees in this area. Once spring arrives, I’ll do a fresh cut and dab the bittersweet with herbicide. Then, monthly brush hogging and weeding will need to occur so that these lovely trees (and the foot bridge in the above photo on the right) are clearly visible.

I’m grateful that the maple tree and bald cypress are healthy and that the golden arborvitae still shows such promising signs of life. As with all of the trees here, I look forward to enjoying their beauty for many years to come.

Lush Heritage Product Review: Makita HCU 02C1 Cordless Chainsaw

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Summary

The Makita HCU02C1 LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Chainsaw, 36-Volt is a powerful, lightweight, and quiet tool that is ideal for cutting small- to medium-sized trees and branches. It’s also “clean” – with no gas required to operate it, you won’t breathe noxious fumes or pollute the air while using it. Add to that ease-of-use and a long battery charge and you get a very handy tool for the DIY-minded property owner.

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Date Purchased:  May 2015

Cost: Approximately US$400 for the entire kit, which included a 36-volt battery and charger, plus tax   

Key Attributes: 

  • 1,650 FPM chain speed (Lush Heritage note: “FPM” means feet per minute, which is a chain-speed calculation. The higher the number, the faster the saw’s cutting speed.)
  • Low noise level at only 89 dB(A)
  • “Tool-less” chain adjustment for convenient operation and maintenance
  • 12” guide bar for increased capacity
  • Instant start-up

Does It Work as Advertised?

Yes. The Makita HCU02C1 LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Chainsaw, 36-Volt is comfortable in hand and cuts equally well on green and aged wood. I do not use it on rotting or mushy material – that would likely dull the chain. Although I cut only wood that is no more than six inches in diameter, I suspect it can cut much larger pieces pretty quickly without bogging down. However, that capability is also dependent on the operator’s skill and sound judgment. I am not a chainsaw expert and stay well within my limited skill set with this potentially lethal tool. The 36-volt battery charges fast and holds the charge for at least a month, even when I’ve left it in unheated or semi-heated spaces. While you have to be mindful of battery life, I never let the charge wind completely down so this tool is essentially ready whenever I am.

I don’t own any other Makita cordless tools so I can’t attest to the battery interchangeability among them.

I have been so busy using this Makita cordless chainsaw for so long that it has been discontinued! Check out a comparable Makita model here.

Special Considerations

All chainsaws are extremely dangerous. I always store and transport this Makita without the battery in place. With the battery loaded, this chainsaw is “live.” So, for example, if I tripped while the battery was loaded, I could land on the saw (or the saw could land on something) just so, causing the lock-off button and switch trigger to engage. This could lead to serious injury or death. Unlike a gas-powered chainsaw which makes a distinct noise whenever it’s on (and even not cutting), this chainsaw is silent when battery-loaded and not being used. That may make it easy for novice and experienced operators to forget how potentially lethal it is and to forget where it has been placed. When I’m not actively cutting, I set the saw in a highly visible and the flattest location at a safe distance from me to lessen the chances of an accident occurring.

Real-World Application

Why and How I Use It

I use the Makita HCU 02C1 Cordless Chainsaw on downed tree branches and downed trees, cutting them into firewood whenever possible. I also use it to clear light brush that is too big for my hand loppers to handle and for when I need a more precise cut than my brush hog can provide. For example, it does a great job of cutting the mature trunks of the invasive burning bush shrub (Euonymus alatus), which are usually no more than three inches in diameter. Although this shrub can grow to be quite unwieldy and over eight feet tall, its individual branches and trunk are not heavy. I do not saw anything upright that could injure or kill me if it fell on me, and I do not use this chainsaw to remove overhead growth of any kind.

The Potential Pine-Branch Nightmare

I was particularly pleased to own this chainsaw when I awakened on a lovely May morning to see that a massive pine tree branch had fallen in front of one of the barns.

My immediate thought was: I need to call my tree guy. Then I thought, if I cut and remove all the smaller branches I’ll be left with a manageable pile of big pieces that my brother could cut with his more powerful, gas-powered chainsaw. My sister and I used the Makita and hand clippers to cut all but the biggest pieces. Then, luckily, a passing utility crew offered to cut them. Although their kind help was essential in our clearing all the debris in about six hours, my sister and I were able to do much of the cutting ourselves. The below photos show the thick logs that the utility crew cut. If they hadn’t come along, at least the area wouldn’t have looked like a disaster zone after my sister and I finished cutting and removing what we could.

Benefits

Increased Self-Sufficiency

For average do-it-yourselfers, the Makita HCU 02C1 LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Chainsaw, 36-Volt allows them to keep their property looking neater in between visits from a tree professional. I often use it after storms have littered the lawns and hayfields with broken branches. Removing all the limbs off a large branch or smaller tree can often make the resulting wood “rollable” or easier to “flip” end-to-end until you get it where you want it. Using both methods, I’ve moved thick, 6-foot logs that were otherwise too heavy for me to move by myself.

Easier Land Management

Cutting your own wood can save your property from additional, unanticipated damage and the extra time, cost, and effort it would take to repair it. If you have to wait weeks or months for a tree contractor to show up, that kind of delay can kill grass or greenery beneath downed wood. This can also postpone your ability to do other lawn and garden projects or create unsafe conditions. I left a downed tree at the end of a hayfield for a couple of months, intending to cut it with the Makita before the end of spring. Unfortunately, I didn’t made it out there before the growing grass buried it, creating a trip hazard and posing an obstacle to low-set tractor blades.

Other Positives

Easy to Use

Just load a charged battery, and it’s ready to use. No start cord to pull, no electrical cord to limit your work area, no reason not to use it. For many years I watched my father and brother cut firewood with a heavy, noisy, gas-powered chainsaw. They made it look deceptively easy, but I never contemplated using a chainsaw until I started buying property decades later. All I knew was that I didn’t want to have to pull any type of cord to start it – that’s one of the reasons why I dislike using gas-powered push lawnmowers. My brother showed me (and my sister) how to use the chainsaw over a few demonstrations. As he always does with any product that I buy, he also strongly advised that I read the instruction and safety manual – preferably more than once. For additional safety, my sister and I are usually together when one of us uses this saw.

It’s Lightweight

This means that users likely won’t become fatigued the way they can with a heavier, gas model. Also, its low vibration greatly limits any tiredness in the user’s hands, arms, and shoulders. This decreases the probability of injury and allows for longer, more comfortable work sessions. Granted, I use this Makita for small jobs for no more than 30 minutes at a time. I don’t have tremendous upper-body strength, but I’ve never felt that I had to stop cutting because this chainsaw became too heavy to operate safely.

Quiet Operation

This is one of this chainsaw’s biggest selling points. Unlike with many other electric tools, I can use this Makita comfortably without wearing ear protection. That’s one less item to forget to pack. You can get an early morning start without disturbing your neighbors or enjoy the sounds of nature as you work. Unlike a gas-powered chainsaw, this Makita is completely silent when it is not actively cutting. Depending on where you’re using it, you may appreciate being able to hear what else is going on around you. Also, because I use this on wood no bigger than six inches in diameter, the whirring sound only goes for short periods of time which contributes to a much more pleasant experience. If you’ve ever been near a screaming gas chainsaw (or heard one from a mile away), the Makita’s quietness is a huge positive.

Portability

At just ten pounds and with a 12-inch guide bar, it’s relatively easy to carry long distances by hand. This is especially helpful if you must traverse rough terrain to reach a cut site.

“Tool-Free” Maintenance

As noted above. I have tightened the chain myself and checked the oil, but generally speaking, my brother maintains all of my lawn and garden equipment. At least I feel less guilty when he checks this saw since he doesn’t have to break out his seemingly endless array of tools. I’d like to become more self-reliant when it comes to tool and equipment maintenance generally, but for the foreseeable future, I’ll rely on my brother’s (free!) expertise and labor.

Can the Average Woman Use This?

Yes. At a mere ten pounds with the battery loaded, this compact chainsaw doesn’t require users to have outsized strength or huge hands to use it properly. 

Verdict

The Makita HCU 02C1 LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Chainsaw, 36 Volt is a quiet, lightweight, and powerful tool that’s easy on the operator’s body and on the environment. It allows for more property-owner control over the appearance and safety of their land at a relatively low price. In addition, its ease-of-use should appeal to those individuals who otherwise would be disinclined to purchase a chainsaw at all. For 6+ years, it has been a reliable and much-used piece of equipment on my 25 acres, and I expect many more years of outstanding performance. I’m a fan of products that easily foster self-reliant land management at a reasonable cost. Based on my experience, this chainsaw fills that role without any drawbacks. And, yes, I would gladly buy it again.

Disclaimer: The information contained herein is for general information purposes only. Lush Heritage makes no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability or suitability with respect to this website or to the information contained herein for any purpose. Any reliance the reader places on such information is therefore strictly at the reader’s own risk.

Lush Heritage Autumn: Fabulous Fall at a New England Farm

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Autumn is here!

The sights, sounds, and scents of early fall in New England usher in a unique energy and a renewed appreciation of nature and open spaces.

We’re treated to hillsides ablaze in reds, oranges, yellows, pinks, and purples while others only blush in rich, muted colors. Woodlands are alive with the sounds of dropping acorns. Squirrels and chipmunks are scurrying everywhere, stockpiling their winter rations. Early flocks of geese have begun to migrate south, honking their farewells as they fly overhead. The pungent aroma of burning wood cuts through clean, crisp air.

These few weeks are the perfect time for quiet walks in the countryside and long Saturday drives on scenic backroads. My sister and I did the latter this past weekend, passing through the lovely Berkshires and verdant Pioneer Valley in Massachusetts. I’m happy to report that our route was not clogged with like-minded individuals!

Our foliage season is delayed this year due to continuing warm weather. Even taking that into account, I sense that the foliage near me will remain generally lackluster. Much of this may be due to the devastating effects of the emerald ash borer. This invasive, wood-boring beetle has destroyed millions of ash trees across 35 states. (I will share my thoughts on how I may counteract this loss on my property in another post.) Many maple leaves simply shriveled and turned brown before falling.

Here at Lush Heritage, some of the wetter hayfields have not had their final cut for the year, a patchwork quilt of leaves blankets the lawns every day, and the flower gardens need tending. The grounds aren’t picture-perfect and there is (always) so much to do. Despite that, I hope you enjoy this “real life” photo gallery of our early autumn:

Barn 1

Barn 2

A Lower Hayfield, Divided by the Vernal Stream

The Start of a Stumpery, Perhaps

Dahlias, Daisies, and Dogwoods

I bought six Montauk (Nippon) daisies a few weeks ago, but I’ve planted only one in this unforgiving, rocky soil. The Kousa dogwoods are at the edge of the main lawn, leading into the woods beyond.

The Main Lawn and the Fire Pond

The fire pond is also at the edge of the main lawn, in need of my attention.

Happy Halloween!

Eight Ways to Conquer Tough DIY Landscaping Projects – Part 2

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Please pardon my delay in posting. Spring and summer got away from me – we all know the feeling, especially during these challenging times.  In my last post, I shared four ways in which you can triumph over really tough landscaping projects.  Here are the remaining four. I hope you find these tips helpful:

5. Set Realistic Goals and Pursue Them In Logical Order

Goals should also be specific and measurable. When I originally wrote this post in March 2021, my goals were as follows: “Within the next 45 days, I plan to finish my spring cleanup, rehabilitate the road salt-ravaged south lawn, plant forty Japanese irises along the vernal stream, and finish clearing the overgrown corner of the main lawn in order to create a low-key outdoor dining area.  I’ve been cleaning up the flower beds in 30-45 minute increments each day during the week and devoting several hours to this task during the weekends. Progress is steady and not too exhausting; the flower beds will be done in a few days.”

Real-world update:  I couldn’t clear the dining area this spring/summer and just began that work last week.  However, I did complete the other four tasks – with a couple of asterisks, of course:

First, I did rehabilitate the south lawn, but we didn’t get much rain for weeks on end so it took a while to green up.  Then the heat of summer fried the newly grown grass and the crabgrass returned.  I assume that area still has a too-high concentration of prior winters’ road salt/sand which will only worsen in subsequent years. The solution may be to rototill the area each spring to incorporate a heavy amount of fertilizer and fresh soil before re-seeding.

Second, I did plant all 40 Japanese irises (20 Silverband, 10 Silent Thunder, and 10 Thoroughbred).  They survived though I think they will be competing with champion-sized skunk cabbage for dominance. I’m excited to see if they bloom next year.

Only you know what your priorities are for how you want your property to look and how you need to balance that against all of your other responsibilities in life. So while your property may look less than great for several months, or even years, if you’ve set the right goals in the right order and you keep going, you will see a steady and noticeable transformation.  It will make you happy. You will not quit.

6. Plan for Each Work Day (and Have a Backup Plan)

This tip seems obvious, but I have wasted up to two hours on a Saturday morning by not being prepared. If your work time is relegated to the weekend or maybe an hour or two before or after work during the week, you simply cannot waste time deciding what you want to work on that day, only to discover that you don’t have the right tools/supplies, you’re out of gas, or a battery has died. Especially if you have only a three-hour window before it rains for the rest of the weekend. Even if you’re working from home, time management is critical.

Plan everything:

Food/Beverages (preferably easily portable)

I’ll eat the healthiest breakfast I have available on intense work days; nothing sugar- or fat-laden since that’ll just sap my energy. Whether working in cold or hot weather, it’s important to stay hydrated.  If I’m not near the house, I bring a thermos of water with me.

Outerwear/Protective Gear

  • If you’re new to bushwhacking, you’ll likely need:
    • Sunscreen
    • Sunhat/sun mask (and a portable umbrella, if you’re feeling extravagant)
    • Folding lawn chairs
    • Mosquito/tick spray (preferably organic)
    • Noise-cancellation headphones
    • Protective eyewear
    • Filtration mask (if you’re working during a high-pollen count, or if your lawn has deer and other wildlife droppings as mine does and you’re concerned about what raking and mowing will release into the air and your lungs)
    • Work gloves (preferably long-cuffed)
    • Light-colored, outdoor work clothing (it’ll be easier to find any ticks that latch onto you; normal shirts and jeans/pants likely will be shredded at some point and won’t protect your skin as well from thorns)
    • Waterproof boots (insulated for winter)
    • Cell phone (with portable solar charger)
    • First-aid kit
    • Blaze orange (during hunting season)

A special note:  If you are not savvy about hunting, check your state’s website for the current and upcoming hunting seasons, mark each of those dates on a calendar (make note of the hours), and check it before you go out. If it’s hunting season and you’re working in or near hunting territory (even if you’re on your own land and you have posted legally-enforceable no trespass/no hunting signs), it’s smart to wear the appropriate “blaze orange” outerwear so you are not mistaken for quarry. Sadly, there have been many news reports of hunters shooting people, sometimes when the victims have been on their own property. I’ve seen roofers wearing blaze orange vests when they’re working atop houses hundreds of yards from where one can legally hunt.  Make sure to outfit your dog, too, if it will be outside with you.

The Right Tools

  • Loppers, snips, shovels, rakes, push mower, riding mower, tractor, brush hog, chainsaw, weed trimmer, whatever you need for the task at hand.  Make sure all tools are properly maintained, sharpened, gassed up, charged up, and ready to go. Luckily, my brother handles maintenance and repairs for me.
Speaking of food, this Sunday roast-sized frog barely budged when I was just a few feet away from it cutting back a thicket of artemisia near the former koi pond.

7. Know When and How to End Each Work Session

Before you start work, know when you’re going to call it a day.  From Daylight Saving in March through mid-June, I prefer to work between 8:00am – 2:00pm.  Earlier than that and everything is usually wet with dew. Later than that, and I’m likely worn out anyway or it’s getting too warm. I tend not to work between 10:00am and 5:00pm during summer and look forward to the cooler weather that typically returns in late September.

Give yourself enough time to clean up your worksite, clear/stack whatever you cut that day, and clean your tools so that you’re done at the appointed time. Re-fill gas cans and make sure all electric tools are re-charged before your next work day. You may be rained out, get sick or have other commitments that will prevent you from completing your project per your original schedule. You don’t want to leave stacks of brush or other mess to greet you the next time. The few times I did that I regretted it; I felt like I was wasting time and energy that I couldn’t spare cleaning up last week’s work. Each work day is a fresh work day, and you’ll appreciate the psychological lift when you see how much you truly completed the last time.

Loading the cart yet again with artemisia…

Two summers ago, my lawn got a little long and my sister volunteered to mow it after work. The clippings were so long they would have killed the grass if she’d left them on the lawn. She was tired, but she raked the clippings onto a big tarp, rolled it up but didn’t empty it.

Yep, one week later when we unrolled it a dozen baby mice shot out of that thing.

And the urine-soaked, fermenting clippings stank. Really bad.

8. Don’t Give Up

I have wanted to, more than once. I’ve been stressed out thinking about how much more needs to be done, how physically hard it will be, and that I won’t be finished before the heat, humidity, and bugs kick in. I’ve set this year as the year that I complete the reclamation stage of my major projects and then move onto hopefully easier maintenance. I don’t want to miss that goal.

I know I’m making progress. I’m working cleanly and thoroughly and I don’t have to worry about someone doing a substandard job and charging me through the nose for the privilege.  Your home is likely your biggest investment.  Do whatever you can on your own so that when you need to hire the professionals you can better afford to do so. Every square foot you take back (or smartly return to nature) increases the value of your property, and every step you take is another dollar in your pocket.

I almost didn’t see this beautiful dragonfly early one morning as I was about to enter the barn to get my tools. I took its presence as a sign of good luck.

9. Bonus Tip: Forgive Yourself

Weeks or months (or years!) into your landscaping project, there will be times when you just don’t have the energy to drag one more tree branch to the brush pile. Don’t punish yourself. Take off and do something fun. Or just rest. You’ve earned it.

Eight Ways to Conquer Tough DIY Landscaping Projects – Part 1

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If you’re reading this post, you probably own an old homestead with substantial acreage that you’re trying to rejuvenate yourself – when you have the time. Congratulations, and welcome to the club! Are you wondering when your paradise will actually resemble what you’re envisioning?  I know the feeling.  You have a multi-year plan like I do just to reclaim your grounds, and sometimes you’re overwhelmed by the enormity of the undertaking. After hours and hours of backbreaking work and trial and (more than a little) error on my 25 acres, I’d like to share eight ways to conquer tough DIY landscaping projects.

Maintaining the right mindset, being mindful of why you’re working so hard is key.

Basic Landscaping Headaches

But first, if any of the following sounds familiar, you’re in the right place:

  • Sections of your lawns are compacted deserts where nothing but a few struggling weeds grow. Other sections have tall grass lying on its side and thigh-high weeds.
  • Invasive vines have latched onto everything they can – trees, bushes, buildings, stone walls.
  • Desirable sightlines and landscaping features (natural and manmade) are hidden by overgrowth.
  • Unwanted vegetation (including saplings and trees) have overtaken flower gardens and pastures and narrowed the perimeters of hayfields.
  • A graveyard of huge, downed branches and entire trees is hidden in the thickest overgrowth.
  • To top it all off, you’re pretty sure that there are areas teeming with ticks, snakes, and mice.

This is just some of what I’ve been tackling, but I had no idea about the snakes and the mice.

Whether your home is on five acres, five hundred, or somewhere in between, if you have exterior no-go zones that you want to beautify on your own, here are some topline tips that I hope are helpful:

1. Take Before-and-After Photos and/or Videos at Key Stages

Otherwise, you won’t remember how rough your property looked (and your friends and family won’t believe you either). Cataloging works-in-progress is very satisfying, and you’ll need every bit of encouragement as you labor over several days, weeks, or months. This photographic evidence is a great incentive to stay the course. When you’re done it’ll also be a wonderful reminder of your fortitude and maybe even encourage you to take on tougher tasks.

I began gathering my own photographic evidence in 2014. I’m always amazed when I look at photos of the thicket of ten-foot high rhododendrons that used to block the entire north side of the little house. Unfortunately, I used an ancient phone to take them and haven’t figured out how to post them. I probably spent just a weekend or two cutting down and stacking the rhododendrons. With a rented chipper, it took my sister, brother, and me a few hours to dispose of them. 

Unintended benefit: The money that I saved by cutting and chipping myself allowed me to splurge on mahogany for the new porch boards instead of settling for a less durable wood.

2. Be Patient

Time and weather will be constant challenges that will often defeat you – at least temporarily.

The power of their one-two punch will be compounded if you’ve bought a house whose grounds you don’t know well, or where you don’t live full-time or even close by.

Tackle the smaller projects first and divide the biggest projects into a series of discrete jobs, otherwise you’ll feel overwhelmed. Devise a plan for each. Always play the long game, with conservation in mind.

Where to Begin?

Let’s say you have a big, overgrown lawn, tangled areas of mystery plants, and an obstructed hillside view.

Handle the Smallest, Discrete Projects First

In my example, that’s reclaiming the lawn. You want an immediate, visible reward for your efforts, and the results will improve with each mowing. I was thrilled to see how beautiful my main lawn appeared after mowing an area that had reverted to meadow, and that has kept me going as I’ve dealt with other, more physically demanding projects.

Be Prepared to Keep Detailed Records

For the scary section, unless you know every plant and its life cycle, simply document what is growing and blooming there for at least one year.  Yes, one full year. There’s no other way to know if you have hidden treasure or trash.  Be optimistic! I discovered lovely Kousa dogwood bordering my main lawn this way.  I might have cut them down to have a better view of the stone wall running behind them if I’d rushed. You may be host to beautiful apple or cherry trees, or fabulous perennials such as irises, hyacinths, or peonies. Maybe you’ll be lucky and discover productive blueberry bushes or masses of wild strawberries.

If you still think you’ll forget where your valuable plants are, take photos of them while active/in-bloom and while dormant, mark them with stakes, rope off the area, or attach color-coded ribbons or waterproof labels to them.

Put Away the Chainsaw

For your hillside view, do not clear-cut anything or aggressively limb trees until you are sure what its impact will be – on the environment, you, and others. Trees provide critical wildlife habitat as well as privacy, and sound and wind breaks (lower heating bills!) for you and your neighbors. Has a developer bought the land on the other side of what you want to clear? Do you really want to see the effect of that? What if an abutter decided to aggressively clear their land, leaving you exposed if you act similarly?  Be very conservative when clearing land; rash decisions cannot be corrected quickly, if at all.

A Tale of Impatience

A few years ago, I hired someone to clear a weedy jungle bordering a vernal stream so that I could see the hayfields on either side of it. Per my instructions, he chopped down just about everything. I didn’t even know three clumps of pussy willow trees were there because they’d been swamped by vines. The felled trees, around fifteen feet tall, burst with catkins months later!  That was when I’d realized what had been lost. I can’t fault my contractor. I was tired of the jungle and hadn’t done the proper research to know what was growing. Also, if I had cleared that area myself, I would have done so by hand, painstakingly removing the unwanted growth from the trees then seen the catkins.

3. Research

Research which plants to keep or (re-) introduce onto your property and which ones to eradicate, taking into account three main factors:

Biodiversity

I favor native plants since that seems the easiest way to maintain balance and biodiversity.  I also like plants that thrive in my local culture without any special effort on my part.  There is no single, correct approach.  Just make sure you don’t retain or plant any invasive species. Sometimes the maturation of beneficial species takes longer, and unfortunately, this often leads people to landscape with faster growing trees like the Bradford pear. I understand their appeal, in part because they’re awash with pretty white blossoms in the spring.

Bradford pear trees are also invasive, and it is now illegal in several states to sell them. In the last couple of years, I’ve noticed how groves of these trees dominate the woodlands along the sides of highways in the Northeast.

Check your state’s guidelines about which plants have been declared invasive. If you discover any on your property, eradicate them in an environmentally responsible manner. Consider your hardiness zone, sun/shade availability, soil condition, and the ease of maintenance when choosing substitutes. I discuss how I’ve dealt with certain invasive plants here.

Animal and Human Welfare

Plants (and brush piles) provide food and shelter for animals.  They encourage balanced and diverse populations of prey and predator which leads to healthy ecosystems.

Always have plants that attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies. Pollination is necessary for plants to reproduce, and most of the crops that we consume and that provide most of our nutrition are pollinated by animals, most commonly insects. UMass Amherst’s The Center for Agriculture, Food and the Environment and Penn State’s College of Agricultural Sciences are wonderful sources of information on this topic and related issues; there are many others.

I have a somewhat messy triangle in a small corner of my main lawn, and it’s likely going to stay that way for one reason: it’s the home of a few dozen milkweed plants, which butterflies love. No “suburban perfection” here! I envision creating a mini-retreat in the 17’ W x 40’ L space next to it:  removing the weeds and all the bamboo, installing a couple of pollinator-friendly flower beds, then adding a dining table, chairs, and umbrella should do it. The photo below shows what the area looks like today.

Aesthetics

We all want our properties to be lush and beautiful. Sometimes, what seems to be an easy decision to achieve that goal really isn’t. Isn’t all grass the same basic green? No, it isn’t. I found this out the hard way when I planted Kentucky 31 (also, KY 31 or K 31), a tall fescue, one fall.  I wanted to finish clearing and then re-seed Maple Tree Row so the area wouldn’t look so barren the following spring. All I wanted was a grass that grows in sun and shade. The seeds soon germinated and sprouted a light, bright green. The surrounding area has darker, more attractive grass. So, I think I’m going to thin the KY 31 with other grasses (including perennial rye) and hope for the best. A slight aggravation in the grand scheme of things, but one that could have been avoided if I’d researched grass color more.

Finally, as always, research the tools that you’ll need to accomplish your landscaping goals most efficiently.  I post product reviews on this site.

4. Embrace Nature and Your Property’s History

Conservationists are stewards of the land, respecting history while being forward thinking. If your homestead has recent manmade features, particularly those of unremarkable material, character or workmanship (a crumbling patio, a too-small swimming pool, a pergola of questionable stability), think about whether each feature is worthy of the time and money it will take to repair, re-build, or maintain it. Does it reflect the property’s unique history or the region’s in some way? Does it fit your (life)style, or the style of the house and grounds?  Does it add imperceptible value to your property in terms of your sheer enjoyment of it? Does it actually detract from the true beauty of your property and the surrounding area?

The answers are all subjective, but you’re likely driven by a love of open spaces and healthy, natural environments and an appreciation for historical relevance.  Let that be your guide. The prior owners of your property may have made some unfortunate decisions. Don’t be afraid to undo them.  Conversely, the prior owners hopefully made thoughtful, long-term decisions to maximize the value and pastoral beauty of your grounds and neighboring land. Continue their legacy, in big ways and small.

The Corn Crib

I own an old corn crib, dating perhaps from the 1800s.  I’d never heard the term before I bought the land it sits on, and I’ll probably never use it. It had such a severe lean that if you looked at it the wrong way, it could have collapsed.  But it’s a part of this property’s history as a working farm, and corn cribs aren’t so common anymore. My contractor told me that mine appeared to have its original hardware, which made it that much more unusual. I had him repair the building a few years ago and splurged on cedar shakes for the roof.  It now sits proudly behind a big barn and should withstand many years of tough New England weather.  

Elegant Inspiration

By embracing nature, you can keep things simple and save money. Home-improvement shows often highlight elaborate outdoor kitchens that are equal to or better equipped than most people’s sole, indoor kitchen.  Why try to replicate your interior outside and spend a small fortune doing so?  Nature is its own wondrous escape, full of sights, sounds, and scents that a lot of hardscape diminishes.  Would you rather dine under a grand oak tree surrounded by lush greenery or on a slab of concrete surrounded by stainless steel appliances? 

Take a look at Southwood Estate in Upstate New York for timeless inspiration. This stunning 86-acre estate runs along the Hudson River and is nestled in the Catskill Mountains. It lies serenely within its surroundings without interrupting the spectacular scenery.  All of us should strive toward such responsible land ownership and management.

Thank you for reading, and stay tuned for the last four tips in my next post.