Lush Heritage

Celebrating a conservation-leaning approach to living well and the DIY spirit.

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This year, I took a very relaxed approach to my exterior Christmas décor. That meant re-using last year’s decorations, re-purposing items with rustic burlap, and leaving most outbuildings undecorated. The whole effort was quick and inexpensive, and the understated result reflects my mood at year-end in a satisfying way.

I waited to post these photos, hoping that we’d get some snow after I put up this year’s decorations in mid-December.  It finally arrived, on Christmas Eve morning. It now looks like a proper New England Christmas.

The Barns

For the barn closest to the main house, I used last year’s grapevine wreath and simply attached a new bow. I am still on my jewel-tone kick for exterior Christmas decorations and do love the rich, deep red of the flocked velvet bow. It’s a fantastic pop of color that I like even more than last year’s purple.

This project was superfast to complete since I took only one trip to the garden center for the bow then one trip up and down a stepladder to pin it on the wreath. I never removed the wreath after last year’s Christmas since it’s so heavy and when left plain it almost disappears against the barn.

The other barn is unadorned this year, but it’s still a beauty. Here’s a “shy” shot of it in the distance, taken today, on Christmas Eve:

The Houses

For the front entrance to the main house and the little house, I wanted something other than a traditional wreath or garland. I settled on two four-foot Christmas trees, which worked well for several reasons: they have a properly-scaled, lovely presence that can be ornate or subdued – both choices are festive. They’re also less expensive, much easier to transport, and require fewer lights and decorations than large trees.

To keep things pretty and limit the color palette, I wanted a fabric-covered base and planned to use either five-gallon plastic containers that were stored in the barn or planters that I’d used this spring and summer. The trees were so full that the plastic containers just looked too small. Also, their mouths were so narrow that it would have been too difficult to place a tree stand inside. My sister lent me the perfect choice: her plastic planters that she’d used this year to grow tomatoes.

Choosing the fabric took a bit longer than I thought it would though I limited myself to a few online searches and one trip to the fabric store. Ultimately, I decided to keep everything simple and rustic and selected burlap. It’s relatively inexpensive, rugged, and the store had a burlap ribbon whose color matched the flocked velvet merlot bows that I was going to re-use.

It took my sister and me about twenty minutes to wrap each planter and set up each tree. That may not sound like a laid-back approach, but it really is when compared to what I was contemplating in early November. We secured the burlap with duct tape and big binder clips, hidden in the back. The toppers are the bows that I used on the barn wreaths last Christmas.

The Main House

This tree is centered on the top step at the front door. It’s completely unprotected from the elements so we staked it to the ground on either side, using twine and narrow wooden posts. It has swayed in vicious winds but remained upright. We wrapped the tree in small, warm-white faceted lights which up-light the house and the two merlot bows with gold backing – an unanticipated and beautiful flourish.

Yes, the house needs to be painted!

The Little House

This wee gem is undergoing protracted renovations, but it still deserves a touch of the holiday spirit. Although it has a covered porch which offers a fair amount of protection, the tree that I placed on the porch fell over a few times in high winds. Its trunk was too narrow to fit firmly within the tree stand so we used various sticks as shims. It has since remained upright for the past couple of weeks despite some very blustery days and nights. We wrapped the tree in small, gold faceted lights which provide an even warmer glow than the warm white that I really like.

About a week later, I added a juniper swag festooned with merlot ribbon that I bought last year. I think the swag would look better if I’d placed it lower and hung it by the ribbon, but I’m enjoying it just as it is.

Merry Christmas! Wishing everyone a safe and happy holiday season.

Decluttering a Triangle of Trees

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As you know, I am a very big fan of old trees – maple, birch, willow, linden, to name a few. Mature specimens of many of my favorites dot the property. Luckily, I can enjoy their unparalleled beauty through virtually every window in the house. I’m very grateful to the prior owners of the past 200+ years who cared for these trees so they could reach their full potential or who selected species of trees that have so enhanced my little patch of green.

Keeping these trees clear of underbrush and vines is an ongoing priority as they add a graceful grandeur to the property that I doubt any manmade feature could.

Two weeks ago, I finally cleared beneath a stately old maple that lies west of the house and fire pond. 

Doing so emphasized two nearby accent trees, a golden arborvitae and bald cypress that together with the maple form a lovely triangle. One that was overdue to be decluttered.

The Maple

It’s one of the grandest trees here and has survived decades of vicious New England weather with very little damage. However, an unsightly “bracelet” of underbrush had grown beneath it, diminishing its presence. I strongly believe that a tree trunk should be largely unobstructed in order to properly showcase the tree.

It took only two hours to cut and remove the unwanted vegetation. I was very pleased with the result which is shown in the featured image for this post.

Why did it take me three and a half years to finally do this? Well, a major reason is that I was worried about cutting any deliberate understory plants. I could identify only invasive bittersweet and burning bush and a deciduous azalea which was almost completely hidden by mystery greenery (even when loaded with gorgeous lilac blossoms). Fortunately, my two neighbors whom I’ve known for most of my life are very knowledgeable gardeners and have been answering my gardening questions.

Green Trash vs. Green Treasure

Two weeks ago, one of them kindly walked with me around the maple and identified the only other keeper hiding the trunk:  fothergilla. I’d never heard of it, couldn’t remember it looking or smelling spectacular and would have cut it, if she hadn’t told me what it was.

Based on my quick research: fothergilla is a shade-tolerant North American native and has wonderfully fragrant bottlebrush-like white flowers in spring; it also pairs well with azaleas and rhododendrons. I don’t know which variety grows here, but given its size I suspect it’s Fothergilla Major (Mountain Witch Alder). If that’s what I have, it’s also the recipient of the Cary Award which recognizes outstanding plants that thrive in New England. As I’ve noted in other posts, I think it’s a good idea to postpone cutting a plant until you know what it is! Of course, if the plant poses an imminent threat, then it should be removed as soon and as safely as possible.

What else did my neighbor identify? Invasive honeysuckle. As soon as she said it, I was itching to cut it to the ground! No doubt, it and the burning bush had outcompeted the fothergilla. As we pushed back the invasives we also discovered lovely stonework, a clump of yuccas, and what appeared to be a type of geranium (or, possibly violet) ground cover. Such lovely surprises. We’re both eagerly awaiting next spring to see what other desirable plants may be growing there.

No Herbicide Yet

In this location, I would have preferred to eradicate the invasives permanently by dabbing the cut stems with an herbicide that I’ve had great success using. However, once plants go dormant in the fall, they likely absorb less herbicide, rendering it much less effective. Cutting and dabbing is slow work so when I do it, it needs to count. That means spring and summer. Also, my tree guys were scheduled to be here in a few days to do another big job of sawing and chipping leaning dead trees and big cracked branches, so I wanted to clear as much as I could before their arrival. They chip and remove everything – or, at my request, dump the chips in a big pile at the edge of a hayfield.

Golden Arborvitae (of Some Sort)

Once I begin clearing around one tree, I seem to see underbrush and fallen or dangling dead branches everywhere.

After I cleared around the maple, I examined the nearby golden arborvitae. I don’t know the exact type, but it’s about twenty feet tall with an oval shape. It was a mess.

The poor thing was swamped with bittersweet on top and crowded by aging lilacs at the bottom. I hadn’t really noticed the tree until my neighbor pointed it – and its snapped branch – out to me.

I regret not removing the bittersweet vines when I bought the property; their heaviness likely contributed to the central leader succumbing to one of last year’s snowfalls.

Many lilacs were growing almost parallel to the ground. My neighbor identified them, but I’ve forgotten their name. She also told me that they had stopped blooming some time ago; she has the same ones growing on her property and they have also petered out. I cut the lilacs to two feet, in the hopes that they will generate new growth that I can keep at about six feet tall.

The Remains

As soon as my tree guys cut and hauled away the refuse, the shape of the remaining arborvitae was evident. Sadly, I could see that at least one-third of the central leader had been lost, bent beneath a blanket of bittersweet. A few branches had been badly damaged as well, leaving one side somewhat sheared. The photos below show the dead leader section (with berry-laden bittersweet) next to the surviving arborvitae; the lilacs, prior to cutting; the tree from different angles; and the awful jungle of thick bittersweet snaking out of the ground and onto the arborvitae. I hope this upland neighbor of the maple can recover over time and may consult with an arborist to improve its chances.

Bald Cypress

The golden arborvitae’s dramatic reveal led me to survey the surrounding area. What else could I cut while my tree guys were here to haul it away? I settled on one of the two biggest bald cypresses. Its splaying trunk was hidden by weeds, and a few bittersweet vines had climbed almost to the top of the tree. Just ten minutes of cutting resulted in another welcome sight:

Later this fall or winter I will cut the bittersweet from the other trees in this area. Once spring arrives, I’ll do a fresh cut and dab the bittersweet with herbicide. Then, monthly brush hogging and weeding will need to occur so that these lovely trees (and the foot bridge in the above photo on the right) are clearly visible.

I’m grateful that the maple tree and bald cypress are healthy and that the golden arborvitae still shows such promising signs of life. As with all of the trees here, I look forward to enjoying their beauty for many years to come.

Lush Heritage Product Review: Makita HCU 02C1 Cordless Chainsaw

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Summary

The Makita HCU02C1 LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Chainsaw, 36-Volt is a powerful, lightweight, and quiet tool that is ideal for cutting small- to medium-sized trees and branches. It’s also “clean” – with no gas required to operate it, you won’t breathe noxious fumes or pollute the air while using it. Add to that ease-of-use and a long battery charge and you get a very handy tool for the DIY-minded property owner.

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Date Purchased:  May 2015

Cost: Approximately US$400 for the entire kit, which included a 36-volt battery and charger, plus tax   

Key Attributes: 

  • 1,650 FPM chain speed (Lush Heritage note: “FPM” means feet per minute, which is a chain-speed calculation. The higher the number, the faster the saw’s cutting speed.)
  • Low noise level at only 89 dB(A)
  • “Tool-less” chain adjustment for convenient operation and maintenance
  • 12” guide bar for increased capacity
  • Instant start-up

Does It Work as Advertised?

Yes. The Makita HCU02C1 LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Chainsaw, 36-Volt is comfortable in hand and cuts equally well on green and aged wood. I do not use it on rotting or mushy material – that would likely dull the chain. Although I cut only wood that is no more than six inches in diameter, I suspect it can cut much larger pieces pretty quickly without bogging down. However, that capability is also dependent on the operator’s skill and sound judgment. I am not a chainsaw expert and stay well within my limited skill set with this potentially lethal tool. The 36-volt battery charges fast and holds the charge for at least a month, even when I’ve left it in unheated or semi-heated spaces. While you have to be mindful of battery life, I never let the charge wind completely down so this tool is essentially ready whenever I am.

I don’t own any other Makita cordless tools so I can’t attest to the battery interchangeability among them.

I have been so busy using this Makita cordless chainsaw for so long that it has been discontinued! Check out a comparable Makita model here.

Special Considerations

All chainsaws are extremely dangerous. I always store and transport this Makita without the battery in place. With the battery loaded, this chainsaw is “live.” So, for example, if I tripped while the battery was loaded, I could land on the saw (or the saw could land on something) just so, causing the lock-off button and switch trigger to engage. This could lead to serious injury or death. Unlike a gas-powered chainsaw which makes a distinct noise whenever it’s on (and even not cutting), this chainsaw is silent when battery-loaded and not being used. That may make it easy for novice and experienced operators to forget how potentially lethal it is and to forget where it has been placed. When I’m not actively cutting, I set the saw in a highly visible and the flattest location at a safe distance from me to lessen the chances of an accident occurring.

Real-World Application

Why and How I Use It

I use the Makita HCU 02C1 Cordless Chainsaw on downed tree branches and downed trees, cutting them into firewood whenever possible. I also use it to clear light brush that is too big for my hand loppers to handle and for when I need a more precise cut than my brush hog can provide. For example, it does a great job of cutting the mature trunks of the invasive burning bush shrub (Euonymus alatus), which are usually no more than three inches in diameter. Although this shrub can grow to be quite unwieldy and over eight feet tall, its individual branches and trunk are not heavy. I do not saw anything upright that could injure or kill me if it fell on me, and I do not use this chainsaw to remove overhead growth of any kind.

The Potential Pine-Branch Nightmare

I was particularly pleased to own this chainsaw when I awakened on a lovely May morning to see that a massive pine tree branch had fallen in front of one of the barns.

My immediate thought was: I need to call my tree guy. Then I thought, if I cut and remove all the smaller branches I’ll be left with a manageable pile of big pieces that my brother could cut with his more powerful, gas-powered chainsaw. My sister and I used the Makita and hand clippers to cut all but the biggest pieces. Then, luckily, a passing utility crew offered to cut them. Although their kind help was essential in our clearing all the debris in about six hours, my sister and I were able to do much of the cutting ourselves. The below photos show the thick logs that the utility crew cut. If they hadn’t come along, at least the area wouldn’t have looked like a disaster zone after my sister and I finished cutting and removing what we could.

Benefits

Increased Self-Sufficiency

For average do-it-yourselfers, the Makita HCU 02C1 LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Chainsaw, 36-Volt allows them to keep their property looking neater in between visits from a tree professional. I often use it after storms have littered the lawns and hayfields with broken branches. Removing all the limbs off a large branch or smaller tree can often make the resulting wood “rollable” or easier to “flip” end-to-end until you get it where you want it. Using both methods, I’ve moved thick, 6-foot logs that were otherwise too heavy for me to move by myself.

Easier Land Management

Cutting your own wood can save your property from additional, unanticipated damage and the extra time, cost, and effort it would take to repair it. If you have to wait weeks or months for a tree contractor to show up, that kind of delay can kill grass or greenery beneath downed wood. This can also postpone your ability to do other lawn and garden projects or create unsafe conditions. I left a downed tree at the end of a hayfield for a couple of months, intending to cut it with the Makita before the end of spring. Unfortunately, I didn’t made it out there before the growing grass buried it, creating a trip hazard and posing an obstacle to low-set tractor blades.

Other Positives

Easy to Use

Just load a charged battery, and it’s ready to use. No start cord to pull, no electrical cord to limit your work area, no reason not to use it. For many years I watched my father and brother cut firewood with a heavy, noisy, gas-powered chainsaw. They made it look deceptively easy, but I never contemplated using a chainsaw until I started buying property decades later. All I knew was that I didn’t want to have to pull any type of cord to start it – that’s one of the reasons why I dislike using gas-powered push lawnmowers. My brother showed me (and my sister) how to use the chainsaw over a few demonstrations. As he always does with any product that I buy, he also strongly advised that I read the instruction and safety manual – preferably more than once. For additional safety, my sister and I are usually together when one of us uses this saw.

It’s Lightweight

This means that users likely won’t become fatigued the way they can with a heavier, gas model. Also, its low vibration greatly limits any tiredness in the user’s hands, arms, and shoulders. This decreases the probability of injury and allows for longer, more comfortable work sessions. Granted, I use this Makita for small jobs for no more than 30 minutes at a time. I don’t have tremendous upper-body strength, but I’ve never felt that I had to stop cutting because this chainsaw became too heavy to operate safely.

Quiet Operation

This is one of this chainsaw’s biggest selling points. Unlike with many other electric tools, I can use this Makita comfortably without wearing ear protection. That’s one less item to forget to pack. You can get an early morning start without disturbing your neighbors or enjoy the sounds of nature as you work. Unlike a gas-powered chainsaw, this Makita is completely silent when it is not actively cutting. Depending on where you’re using it, you may appreciate being able to hear what else is going on around you. Also, because I use this on wood no bigger than six inches in diameter, the whirring sound only goes for short periods of time which contributes to a much more pleasant experience. If you’ve ever been near a screaming gas chainsaw (or heard one from a mile away), the Makita’s quietness is a huge positive.

Portability

At just ten pounds and with a 12-inch guide bar, it’s relatively easy to carry long distances by hand. This is especially helpful if you must traverse rough terrain to reach a cut site.

“Tool-Free” Maintenance

As noted above. I have tightened the chain myself and checked the oil, but generally speaking, my brother maintains all of my lawn and garden equipment. At least I feel less guilty when he checks this saw since he doesn’t have to break out his seemingly endless array of tools. I’d like to become more self-reliant when it comes to tool and equipment maintenance generally, but for the foreseeable future, I’ll rely on my brother’s (free!) expertise and labor.

Can the Average Woman Use This?

Yes. At a mere ten pounds with the battery loaded, this compact chainsaw doesn’t require users to have outsized strength or huge hands to use it properly. 

Verdict

The Makita HCU 02C1 LXT Lithium-Ion Cordless Chainsaw, 36 Volt is a quiet, lightweight, and powerful tool that’s easy on the operator’s body and on the environment. It allows for more property-owner control over the appearance and safety of their land at a relatively low price. In addition, its ease-of-use should appeal to those individuals who otherwise would be disinclined to purchase a chainsaw at all. For 6+ years, it has been a reliable and much-used piece of equipment on my 25 acres, and I expect many more years of outstanding performance. I’m a fan of products that easily foster self-reliant land management at a reasonable cost. Based on my experience, this chainsaw fills that role without any drawbacks. And, yes, I would gladly buy it again.

Disclaimer: The information contained herein is for general information purposes only. Lush Heritage makes no representations or warranties of any kind, express or implied, about the completeness, accuracy, reliability or suitability with respect to this website or to the information contained herein for any purpose. Any reliance the reader places on such information is therefore strictly at the reader’s own risk.

Lush Heritage Autumn: Fabulous Fall at a New England Farm

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Autumn is here!

The sights, sounds, and scents of early fall in New England usher in a unique energy and a renewed appreciation of nature and open spaces.

We’re treated to hillsides ablaze in reds, oranges, yellows, pinks, and purples while others only blush in rich, muted colors. Woodlands are alive with the sounds of dropping acorns. Squirrels and chipmunks are scurrying everywhere, stockpiling their winter rations. Early flocks of geese have begun to migrate south, honking their farewells as they fly overhead. The pungent aroma of burning wood cuts through clean, crisp air.

These few weeks are the perfect time for quiet walks in the countryside and long Saturday drives on scenic backroads. My sister and I did the latter this past weekend, passing through the lovely Berkshires and verdant Pioneer Valley in Massachusetts. I’m happy to report that our route was not clogged with like-minded individuals!

Our foliage season is delayed this year due to continuing warm weather. Even taking that into account, I sense that the foliage near me will remain generally lackluster. Much of this may be due to the devastating effects of the emerald ash borer. This invasive, wood-boring beetle has destroyed millions of ash trees across 35 states. (I will share my thoughts on how I may counteract this loss on my property in another post.) Many maple leaves simply shriveled and turned brown before falling.

Here at Lush Heritage, some of the wetter hayfields have not had their final cut for the year, a patchwork quilt of leaves blankets the lawns every day, and the flower gardens need tending. The grounds aren’t picture-perfect and there is (always) so much to do. Despite that, I hope you enjoy this “real life” photo gallery of our early autumn:

Barn 1

Barn 2

A Lower Hayfield, Divided by the Vernal Stream

The Start of a Stumpery, Perhaps

Dahlias, Daisies, and Dogwoods

I bought six Montauk (Nippon) daisies a few weeks ago, but I’ve planted only one in this unforgiving, rocky soil. The Kousa dogwoods are at the edge of the main lawn, leading into the woods beyond.

The Main Lawn and the Fire Pond

The fire pond is also at the edge of the main lawn, in need of my attention.

Happy Halloween!

Eight Ways to Conquer Tough DIY Landscaping Projects – Part 2

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Please pardon my delay in posting. Spring and summer got away from me – we all know the feeling, especially during these challenging times.  In my last post, I shared four ways in which you can triumph over really tough landscaping projects.  Here are the remaining four. I hope you find these tips helpful:

5. Set Realistic Goals and Pursue Them In Logical Order

Goals should also be specific and measurable. When I originally wrote this post in March 2021, my goals were as follows: “Within the next 45 days, I plan to finish my spring cleanup, rehabilitate the road salt-ravaged south lawn, plant forty Japanese irises along the vernal stream, and finish clearing the overgrown corner of the main lawn in order to create a low-key outdoor dining area.  I’ve been cleaning up the flower beds in 30-45 minute increments each day during the week and devoting several hours to this task during the weekends. Progress is steady and not too exhausting; the flower beds will be done in a few days.”

Real-world update:  I couldn’t clear the dining area this spring/summer and just began that work last week.  However, I did complete the other four tasks – with a couple of asterisks, of course:

First, I did rehabilitate the south lawn, but we didn’t get much rain for weeks on end so it took a while to green up.  Then the heat of summer fried the newly grown grass and the crabgrass returned.  I assume that area still has a too-high concentration of prior winters’ road salt/sand which will only worsen in subsequent years. The solution may be to rototill the area each spring to incorporate a heavy amount of fertilizer and fresh soil before re-seeding.

Second, I did plant all 40 Japanese irises (20 Silverband, 10 Silent Thunder, and 10 Thoroughbred).  They survived though I think they will be competing with champion-sized skunk cabbage for dominance. I’m excited to see if they bloom next year.

Only you know what your priorities are for how you want your property to look and how you need to balance that against all of your other responsibilities in life. So while your property may look less than great for several months, or even years, if you’ve set the right goals in the right order and you keep going, you will see a steady and noticeable transformation.  It will make you happy. You will not quit.

6. Plan for Each Work Day (and Have a Backup Plan)

This tip seems obvious, but I have wasted up to two hours on a Saturday morning by not being prepared. If your work time is relegated to the weekend or maybe an hour or two before or after work during the week, you simply cannot waste time deciding what you want to work on that day, only to discover that you don’t have the right tools/supplies, you’re out of gas, or a battery has died. Especially if you have only a three-hour window before it rains for the rest of the weekend. Even if you’re working from home, time management is critical.

Plan everything:

Food/Beverages (preferably easily portable)

I’ll eat the healthiest breakfast I have available on intense work days; nothing sugar- or fat-laden since that’ll just sap my energy. Whether working in cold or hot weather, it’s important to stay hydrated.  If I’m not near the house, I bring a thermos of water with me.

Outerwear/Protective Gear

  • If you’re new to bushwhacking, you’ll likely need:
    • Sunscreen
    • Sunhat/sun mask (and a portable umbrella, if you’re feeling extravagant)
    • Folding lawn chairs
    • Mosquito/tick spray (preferably organic)
    • Noise-cancellation headphones
    • Protective eyewear
    • Filtration mask (if you’re working during a high-pollen count, or if your lawn has deer and other wildlife droppings as mine does and you’re concerned about what raking and mowing will release into the air and your lungs)
    • Work gloves (preferably long-cuffed)
    • Light-colored, outdoor work clothing (it’ll be easier to find any ticks that latch onto you; normal shirts and jeans/pants likely will be shredded at some point and won’t protect your skin as well from thorns)
    • Waterproof boots (insulated for winter)
    • Cell phone (with portable solar charger)
    • First-aid kit
    • Blaze orange (during hunting season)

A special note:  If you are not savvy about hunting, check your state’s website for the current and upcoming hunting seasons, mark each of those dates on a calendar (make note of the hours), and check it before you go out. If it’s hunting season and you’re working in or near hunting territory (even if you’re on your own land and you have posted legally-enforceable no trespass/no hunting signs), it’s smart to wear the appropriate “blaze orange” outerwear so you are not mistaken for quarry. Sadly, there have been many news reports of hunters shooting people, sometimes when the victims have been on their own property. I’ve seen roofers wearing blaze orange vests when they’re working atop houses hundreds of yards from where one can legally hunt.  Make sure to outfit your dog, too, if it will be outside with you.

The Right Tools

  • Loppers, snips, shovels, rakes, push mower, riding mower, tractor, brush hog, chainsaw, weed trimmer, whatever you need for the task at hand.  Make sure all tools are properly maintained, sharpened, gassed up, charged up, and ready to go. Luckily, my brother handles maintenance and repairs for me.
Speaking of food, this Sunday roast-sized frog barely budged when I was just a few feet away from it cutting back a thicket of artemisia near the former koi pond.

7. Know When and How to End Each Work Session

Before you start work, know when you’re going to call it a day.  From Daylight Saving in March through mid-June, I prefer to work between 8:00am – 2:00pm.  Earlier than that and everything is usually wet with dew. Later than that, and I’m likely worn out anyway or it’s getting too warm. I tend not to work between 10:00am and 5:00pm during summer and look forward to the cooler weather that typically returns in late September.

Give yourself enough time to clean up your worksite, clear/stack whatever you cut that day, and clean your tools so that you’re done at the appointed time. Re-fill gas cans and make sure all electric tools are re-charged before your next work day. You may be rained out, get sick or have other commitments that will prevent you from completing your project per your original schedule. You don’t want to leave stacks of brush or other mess to greet you the next time. The few times I did that I regretted it; I felt like I was wasting time and energy that I couldn’t spare cleaning up last week’s work. Each work day is a fresh work day, and you’ll appreciate the psychological lift when you see how much you truly completed the last time.

Loading the cart yet again with artemisia…

Two summers ago, my lawn got a little long and my sister volunteered to mow it after work. The clippings were so long they would have killed the grass if she’d left them on the lawn. She was tired, but she raked the clippings onto a big tarp, rolled it up but didn’t empty it.

Yep, one week later when we unrolled it a dozen baby mice shot out of that thing.

And the urine-soaked, fermenting clippings stank. Really bad.

8. Don’t Give Up

I have wanted to, more than once. I’ve been stressed out thinking about how much more needs to be done, how physically hard it will be, and that I won’t be finished before the heat, humidity, and bugs kick in. I’ve set this year as the year that I complete the reclamation stage of my major projects and then move onto hopefully easier maintenance. I don’t want to miss that goal.

I know I’m making progress. I’m working cleanly and thoroughly and I don’t have to worry about someone doing a substandard job and charging me through the nose for the privilege.  Your home is likely your biggest investment.  Do whatever you can on your own so that when you need to hire the professionals you can better afford to do so. Every square foot you take back (or smartly return to nature) increases the value of your property, and every step you take is another dollar in your pocket.

I almost didn’t see this beautiful dragonfly early one morning as I was about to enter the barn to get my tools. I took its presence as a sign of good luck.

9. Bonus Tip: Forgive Yourself

Weeks or months (or years!) into your landscaping project, there will be times when you just don’t have the energy to drag one more tree branch to the brush pile. Don’t punish yourself. Take off and do something fun. Or just rest. You’ve earned it.

Eight Ways to Conquer Tough DIY Landscaping Projects – Part 1

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If you’re reading this post, you probably own an old homestead with substantial acreage that you’re trying to rejuvenate yourself – when you have the time. Congratulations, and welcome to the club! Are you wondering when your paradise will actually resemble what you’re envisioning?  I know the feeling.  You have a multi-year plan like I do just to reclaim your grounds, and sometimes you’re overwhelmed by the enormity of the undertaking. After hours and hours of backbreaking work and trial and (more than a little) error on my 25 acres, I’d like to share eight ways to conquer tough DIY landscaping projects.

Maintaining the right mindset, being mindful of why you’re working so hard is key.

Basic Landscaping Headaches

But first, if any of the following sounds familiar, you’re in the right place:

  • Sections of your lawns are compacted deserts where nothing but a few struggling weeds grow. Other sections have tall grass lying on its side and thigh-high weeds.
  • Invasive vines have latched onto everything they can – trees, bushes, buildings, stone walls.
  • Desirable sightlines and landscaping features (natural and manmade) are hidden by overgrowth.
  • Unwanted vegetation (including saplings and trees) have overtaken flower gardens and pastures and narrowed the perimeters of hayfields.
  • A graveyard of huge, downed branches and entire trees is hidden in the thickest overgrowth.
  • To top it all off, you’re pretty sure that there are areas teeming with ticks, snakes, and mice.

This is just some of what I’ve been tackling, but I had no idea about the snakes and the mice.

Whether your home is on five acres, five hundred, or somewhere in between, if you have exterior no-go zones that you want to beautify on your own, here are some topline tips that I hope are helpful:

1. Take Before-and-After Photos and/or Videos at Key Stages

Otherwise, you won’t remember how rough your property looked (and your friends and family won’t believe you either). Cataloging works-in-progress is very satisfying, and you’ll need every bit of encouragement as you labor over several days, weeks, or months. This photographic evidence is a great incentive to stay the course. When you’re done it’ll also be a wonderful reminder of your fortitude and maybe even encourage you to take on tougher tasks.

I began gathering my own photographic evidence in 2014. I’m always amazed when I look at photos of the thicket of ten-foot high rhododendrons that used to block the entire north side of the little house. Unfortunately, I used an ancient phone to take them and haven’t figured out how to post them. I probably spent just a weekend or two cutting down and stacking the rhododendrons. With a rented chipper, it took my sister, brother, and me a few hours to dispose of them. 

Unintended benefit: The money that I saved by cutting and chipping myself allowed me to splurge on mahogany for the new porch boards instead of settling for a less durable wood.

2. Be Patient

Time and weather will be constant challenges that will often defeat you – at least temporarily.

The power of their one-two punch will be compounded if you’ve bought a house whose grounds you don’t know well, or where you don’t live full-time or even close by.

Tackle the smaller projects first and divide the biggest projects into a series of discrete jobs, otherwise you’ll feel overwhelmed. Devise a plan for each. Always play the long game, with conservation in mind.

Where to Begin?

Let’s say you have a big, overgrown lawn, tangled areas of mystery plants, and an obstructed hillside view.

Handle the Smallest, Discrete Projects First

In my example, that’s reclaiming the lawn. You want an immediate, visible reward for your efforts, and the results will improve with each mowing. I was thrilled to see how beautiful my main lawn appeared after mowing an area that had reverted to meadow, and that has kept me going as I’ve dealt with other, more physically demanding projects.

Be Prepared to Keep Detailed Records

For the scary section, unless you know every plant and its life cycle, simply document what is growing and blooming there for at least one year.  Yes, one full year. There’s no other way to know if you have hidden treasure or trash.  Be optimistic! I discovered lovely Kousa dogwood bordering my main lawn this way.  I might have cut them down to have a better view of the stone wall running behind them if I’d rushed. You may be host to beautiful apple or cherry trees, or fabulous perennials such as irises, hyacinths, or peonies. Maybe you’ll be lucky and discover productive blueberry bushes or masses of wild strawberries.

If you still think you’ll forget where your valuable plants are, take photos of them while active/in-bloom and while dormant, mark them with stakes, rope off the area, or attach color-coded ribbons or waterproof labels to them.

Put Away the Chainsaw

For your hillside view, do not clear-cut anything or aggressively limb trees until you are sure what its impact will be – on the environment, you, and others. Trees provide critical wildlife habitat as well as privacy, and sound and wind breaks (lower heating bills!) for you and your neighbors. Has a developer bought the land on the other side of what you want to clear? Do you really want to see the effect of that? What if an abutter decided to aggressively clear their land, leaving you exposed if you act similarly?  Be very conservative when clearing land; rash decisions cannot be corrected quickly, if at all.

A Tale of Impatience

A few years ago, I hired someone to clear a weedy jungle bordering a vernal stream so that I could see the hayfields on either side of it. Per my instructions, he chopped down just about everything. I didn’t even know three clumps of pussy willow trees were there because they’d been swamped by vines. The felled trees, around fifteen feet tall, burst with catkins months later!  That was when I’d realized what had been lost. I can’t fault my contractor. I was tired of the jungle and hadn’t done the proper research to know what was growing. Also, if I had cleared that area myself, I would have done so by hand, painstakingly removing the unwanted growth from the trees then seen the catkins.

3. Research

Research which plants to keep or (re-) introduce onto your property and which ones to eradicate, taking into account three main factors:

Biodiversity

I favor native plants since that seems the easiest way to maintain balance and biodiversity.  I also like plants that thrive in my local culture without any special effort on my part.  There is no single, correct approach.  Just make sure you don’t retain or plant any invasive species. Sometimes the maturation of beneficial species takes longer, and unfortunately, this often leads people to landscape with faster growing trees like the Bradford pear. I understand their appeal, in part because they’re awash with pretty white blossoms in the spring.

Bradford pear trees are also invasive, and it is now illegal in several states to sell them. In the last couple of years, I’ve noticed how groves of these trees dominate the woodlands along the sides of highways in the Northeast.

Check your state’s guidelines about which plants have been declared invasive. If you discover any on your property, eradicate them in an environmentally responsible manner. Consider your hardiness zone, sun/shade availability, soil condition, and the ease of maintenance when choosing substitutes. I discuss how I’ve dealt with certain invasive plants here.

Animal and Human Welfare

Plants (and brush piles) provide food and shelter for animals.  They encourage balanced and diverse populations of prey and predator which leads to healthy ecosystems.

Always have plants that attract pollinators such as bees and butterflies. Pollination is necessary for plants to reproduce, and most of the crops that we consume and that provide most of our nutrition are pollinated by animals, most commonly insects. UMass Amherst’s The Center for Agriculture, Food and the Environment and Penn State’s College of Agricultural Sciences are wonderful sources of information on this topic and related issues; there are many others.

I have a somewhat messy triangle in a small corner of my main lawn, and it’s likely going to stay that way for one reason: it’s the home of a few dozen milkweed plants, which butterflies love. No “suburban perfection” here! I envision creating a mini-retreat in the 17’ W x 40’ L space next to it:  removing the weeds and all the bamboo, installing a couple of pollinator-friendly flower beds, then adding a dining table, chairs, and umbrella should do it. The photo below shows what the area looks like today.

Aesthetics

We all want our properties to be lush and beautiful. Sometimes, what seems to be an easy decision to achieve that goal really isn’t. Isn’t all grass the same basic green? No, it isn’t. I found this out the hard way when I planted Kentucky 31 (also, KY 31 or K 31), a tall fescue, one fall.  I wanted to finish clearing and then re-seed Maple Tree Row so the area wouldn’t look so barren the following spring. All I wanted was a grass that grows in sun and shade. The seeds soon germinated and sprouted a light, bright green. The surrounding area has darker, more attractive grass. So, I think I’m going to thin the KY 31 with other grasses (including perennial rye) and hope for the best. A slight aggravation in the grand scheme of things, but one that could have been avoided if I’d researched grass color more.

Finally, as always, research the tools that you’ll need to accomplish your landscaping goals most efficiently.  I post product reviews on this site.

4. Embrace Nature and Your Property’s History

Conservationists are stewards of the land, respecting history while being forward thinking. If your homestead has recent manmade features, particularly those of unremarkable material, character or workmanship (a crumbling patio, a too-small swimming pool, a pergola of questionable stability), think about whether each feature is worthy of the time and money it will take to repair, re-build, or maintain it. Does it reflect the property’s unique history or the region’s in some way? Does it fit your (life)style, or the style of the house and grounds?  Does it add imperceptible value to your property in terms of your sheer enjoyment of it? Does it actually detract from the true beauty of your property and the surrounding area?

The answers are all subjective, but you’re likely driven by a love of open spaces and healthy, natural environments and an appreciation for historical relevance.  Let that be your guide. The prior owners of your property may have made some unfortunate decisions. Don’t be afraid to undo them.  Conversely, the prior owners hopefully made thoughtful, long-term decisions to maximize the value and pastoral beauty of your grounds and neighboring land. Continue their legacy, in big ways and small.

The Corn Crib

I own an old corn crib, dating perhaps from the 1800s.  I’d never heard the term before I bought the land it sits on, and I’ll probably never use it. It had such a severe lean that if you looked at it the wrong way, it could have collapsed.  But it’s a part of this property’s history as a working farm, and corn cribs aren’t so common anymore. My contractor told me that mine appeared to have its original hardware, which made it that much more unusual. I had him repair the building a few years ago and splurged on cedar shakes for the roof.  It now sits proudly behind a big barn and should withstand many years of tough New England weather.  

Elegant Inspiration

By embracing nature, you can keep things simple and save money. Home-improvement shows often highlight elaborate outdoor kitchens that are equal to or better equipped than most people’s sole, indoor kitchen.  Why try to replicate your interior outside and spend a small fortune doing so?  Nature is its own wondrous escape, full of sights, sounds, and scents that a lot of hardscape diminishes.  Would you rather dine under a grand oak tree surrounded by lush greenery or on a slab of concrete surrounded by stainless steel appliances? 

Take a look at Southwood Estate in Upstate New York for timeless inspiration. This stunning 86-acre estate runs along the Hudson River and is nestled in the Catskill Mountains. It lies serenely within its surroundings without interrupting the spectacular scenery.  All of us should strive toward such responsible land ownership and management.

Thank you for reading, and stay tuned for the last four tips in my next post.

My Top Five Reasons to Landscape in Winter

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Do you live in a cold climate and are you anxious about all of the outdoor work you didn’t finish during spring, summer or fall? Winter might still a great time to accomplish some of your landscaping goals. Newer owners of extensive acreage (like me) learn quickly that it’s often impossible to get everything done during the warmer months and still enjoy their property. As long as there is no snow on the ground where I’ll be working, it’s not windy, and the base temperature is at least 25 degrees Fahrenheit, I’m willing to work outside. If you feel like you don’t have any time to lose and need encouragement to bundle up and get back out there, here are my top five reasons to landscape in winter:

  1. (Virtually) No Insects. Though ticks can still be a threat, it’s a relief not to worry about being bitten by mosquitos, horseflies, deer flies, etc.  Also, bees are not as active (I think they stay in their hives when it’s near or below freezing, in survival mode).  A swarm of yellow jackets chased my sister and me two summers ago. Luckily, we suffered only a few stings, but each one was very painful.
  2. Easier Terrain to Navigate. Some areas here are prone to bogginess from snowmelt or heavy rains; winter is a great time to work in them. Once the ground is rock solid, if I use heavier equipment such as a brush hog I can more easily navigate wetter areas. I cover more ground in less time and use less energy – that’s a win-win!  And, if I need to drag any big logs across the hayfields, I don’t create unnecessary ruts. On a project-specific basis: while the ground is firm this winter, I plan to clear the remaining thick brambles that grow near the vernal stream. They had all but eclipsed the views of this lovely feature.
  3. Greater Visibility. With bare plants all around, I can see much more clearly how vegetation is growing and target cuts more effectively. I don’t mean the pruning of shrubs or flowers, but the removal of an entire plant. Also, I can see stumps and rocks, serious trip hazards that can also damage cutting blades. I’ve been studying what’s growing here for the last few years so I know what I want to get rid of. If you aren’t sure what is growing on your property, you may want to wait a season or two then decide what to keep. On the flip side, winter may make it clear that you need more privacy from your neighbors or passersby, in which case you’ll want to fill in your landscape come springtime.
  4. Lighter Debris. Deciduous vegetation has shed its leaves so without all that bulk, I think it’s easier to move. Again, I remove only what I’ve determined during the growing season that I don’t want.
  5. Ice.  Sometimes ice is helpful when moving vegetation. I still need to clear some of the fire pond’s perimeter. As I stand on firm ground at the pond’s frozen edge it’s much easier to drag cut branches over ice than it is to pull them out of water, especially after they’ve leafed out. I would never venture onto the pond itself and know that working near any body of water at any time of year can be very dangerous.  It’s best to have an arborist handle this type of work.

On my 25 acres I have a few large overgrown areas left to clear and several fallen, mature trees that need to be cut for firewood (or maybe furniture!). During the last few weeks, I’ve cut what I can with my electric chain saw, stacked some firewood, and added the rest to my chipping pile. My brother will cut the bigger pieces with his more powerful, gas-powered chainsaw.

Unfortunately, we’re expecting at least 6-12 inches of snow starting tomorrow morning . . . so, this week I’ll only be moving snow and waiting for the temperature to rise.

Winter can be very taxing on the human body and negatively impact the performance of certain tools/equipment. It can also create dangerous conditions on the ground and overhead. Let’s all be careful out there!

The information contained herein is for entertainment/general information purposes only. Neither Lush Heritage nor any individual or entity affiliated with this website is or shall be responsible for any actions you may take based on content found on this website. Any reliance you place on such content is therefor strictly at your own risk.

The Old Barns at Christmastime

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I’m sharing a few photos of this year’s exterior Christmas decorations. My sister and I dressed up the old barns a bit.  They’re so beautiful in their natural state that I think minimal adornment is best. The flocked velvet ribbons are a deep merlot and a rich purple though they may appear lighter in certain photos.

When I was growing up, my family always started decorating in early to mid December (never in November!), and that timing has stuck with me. This year, however, I didn’t plan particularly well so I wasn’t able to add my seasonal touches everywhere I would have liked – or refine what I did. However, the property still feels festive, and it makes me happy.

Here’s a hint of what Christmas at Lush Heritage looks like this year. 

The old girl looks glam when I turn on the lights:

I went a little rustic with the other barn:

Here are two additional outbuildings, the shed and the corn crib. I’m a fan of boxwood wreaths:

Merry Christmas!

Stay well and enjoy this holiday season.

Winter’s Eve at Lush Heritage

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On this winter’s eve, I’m more than ready to put autumn to rest and to welcome a few more precious seconds of daylight starting this week.

As it is in so much of New England, late autumn at Lush Heritage is arguably the most unremarkable time of the year. It’s betwixt and between the region’s spectacular foliage season and its stunning, snowy winter. Vestiges of glorious fall color no longer cling to the trees or emblazon the ground.  Even the reddish-brown summer coats of the whitetail deer have faded to a dark brownish-gray to match the duller surroundings. At the main house, I’ve left certain lawns littered with acorns and horse chestnuts. In the spring, I’ll remove whatever the animals haven’t consumed or stored.

It’s all rather dreary, except for the lawns and hayfields which appear somewhat verdant.

Fortunately, this year, late autumn graced us with several unseasonably warm days, extending the fall planting season. I could finish weeding the Phragmites out of the south garden then plant my 350 bulbs!

However, about ten days ago, almost a foot of heavy, wet snow clobbered us.  I marched outside during the storm to try to shake free the most vulnerable trees and bushes of its already unbearable weight. I never could have saved everything. By the time I’d gotten to them, 40-year old yews were bent to the ground. The storm set off a chorus of cracking branches and set me on edge as I searched overhead and all around to see where the violence was occurring.

The next morning, the tree destruction all around the property was shocking. Perhaps most troubling was the massive maple tree limb that had broken and dislodged stones from an old barn foundation.

All of which I might have accepted more readily if it had actually been winter, even if it was less than two weeks away.

My sister and I took turns shoveling the main house driveway. I shoveled the little house driveway and pathways at both locations. I picked up as many branches as that packed snow would allow, amazed and grateful that the felled old maple hadn’t hit the little house and that the large branches that had fallen on the stable at the main house hadn’t caused serious damage.

We decorated some of the outbuildings for Christmas, wishing we’d planned better.

And, then…the rain came a couple of days later and washed away much of the snow.

Last Sunday morning, I glimpsed a lovely fog rolling over the hayfields from my bedroom window. Perhaps a courtesy of the rain’s remaining moist air. I bundled up to enjoy nature up close.

The ground was firm but not frozen. So, I convinced myself that I still had time to plant all those hyacinths and daffodils. But before I could get them in the ground, another storm hit us three days ago, battering much of the northeast. On this winter’s eve, they sit in the darkened ell – 350 beauties-in-waiting. I must find out if they can be kept viable, and if so, for how long, or if they can still be planted. For all of us (very) late gardeners, good luck to us all!

Fall Preparation of the South Garden – Peonies’ Progress

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I am still weeding the South Garden! As I wrote last month, this 11′-13′ W x 106′ L space is quite overgrown, but that didn’t stop me from buying the following 358 bulbs for fall planting, including eight glorious peonies:

  • 50 Romance daffodils (the cup opens peach to coral)
  • 100 Louise de Coligny daffodils (apricot)
  • 200 Gypsy Queen hyacinths (apricot)
  • 3 Frances Willard peonies (cream/blush)
  • 5 Hermione peonies (apple-blossom pink)

Peony Dreams

Peonies are my favorite spring flower (possibly my absolute favorite flower, period). In order to indulge my passion for peonies and have year-round interest in front of the house, I’m creating a large peony patch within the south garden. It will have pride of place in the center front, away from the shrubs and specimen trees that will throw too much shade on it.

However, over the last few weeks, I’ve cleared only enough space for twelve peonies, including the eight listed above. The “foundation” peony, a mystery non-bloomer, is well-positioned for full sun but had been smothered by a (now removed) thicket of weeds. Next to these nine beauties, I transplanted three more unknown, non-blooming peonies from the south garden into this weed-free section.

Fragility

Peony blooms are so fragile and short-lived that I dread their end even as they’re just beginning to unfurl. And I was nervous that I’d done everything wrong as I handled their rootstock:

  • I’d waited much too long to plant/transplant (but I’d only received the new bulbs in October)
  • Though the soil is moist and well-drained, I didn’t add any kind of fertilizer to it
  • Maybe I damaged the roots as I dug them out
  • I planted all of roots shallow, but maybe they’re really more than two inches deep, in which case they won’t emerge

Perhaps most importantly, peonies just don’t like to be transplanted. Even under ideal conditions, they may not bloom their strongest for 2-4 years after transplanting. I’d still like to transplant the few struggling peonies from the west side of the main house as well, but I think it is too late in the season to do so.

The above photo is of the west end of the south garden, where the Japanese maples would create too much shade for these sun lovers . This area just looks better than where the peonies will reign supreme one day.

So, why have I made so little progress despite hours and hours of weeding for the last several weeks?

Phragmites.

My Worst Invasive Grass

The prior owner thinks the phragmites somehow took hold in the hayfield south of the south garden. Although the garden bed drains well, sections of the hayfield sometimes have standing water after prolonged, heavy rains. This is the perfect invitation for this reedy nightmare. Phragmites’ rhizomes grow vertically and horizontally. Once they take hold, they will dominate every other nearby plant.

Since October, I have been removing this invasive wetland grass from the south garden with small hand tools and a shovel. Unfortunately, its rhizomes are intertwined with specimen tree and flower roots. The result: I’ve dug up several day lilies by accident, and more than a few daffodils.

And I thought the bamboo were tough to eradicate.

Phragmites removal may end up being the most difficult landscaping task I’ve undertaken, but it cannot be avoided if I’m to have a successful flower garden. So, I’ll continue to shovel and bag their underground canes and dead surface debris then learn how to properly dispose of them. Maybe it’ll be something straightforward like burning.

I suspect it will take years and a few different eradication methods to rid this garden of phragmites. Luckily, it has not extended beyond about half the footprint of this flower bed, even after several years of unchallenged growth.

For now, though, I must wait once again for several days of rain to end then continue my work in the south garden. I’m definitely behind schedule but ever hopeful that I’ll plant the other 350 bulbs before the ground begins to freeze.

No matter how tough it gets, I’ll still be excited about those twelve peonies and eagerly await their red shoots next spring. They’re the start of a wonderful centerpiece of the south garden that will thrive for many decades to come.

How to Rejuvenate an Overgrown Flower Garden – Fall

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I am not an expert gardener and don’t pretend to be, but I do own two old homes that are graced with mature gardens that I’m in the midst of rejuvenating. Throughout her life, my mother always had flowers growing all around the house and until my late teens, my parents (and us kids) grew a large vegetable garden each year. While I learned about gardening back then, I’ve had to learn a lot more as I rejuvenate the overgrown flower gardens on my own property.

Here are some simple guidelines for anyone in a similar situation.

Basic Tips

  • Determine your landscaping aesthetic
  • Discover what’s present and what you want to keep
  • Be ruthless and thorough in removing/suppressing all unwanted growth (which doesn’t mean the automatic use of herbicides)
  • Learn the sunlight amount, wind exposure, and soil characteristics in the specific gardening area(s)
  • Apply soil amendments, if needed
  • Find your planting zone
  • Learn what will thrive naturally in your local conditions (there’s a lovely shrub/tree/flower for just about every environment)
  • Select the greenery you want to introduce (there are fall-planted and spring-planted specimens so if it’s too late to plant, it’s never too late to plan)
  • Work really hard
  • Don’t stress
  • Be eternally optimistic

The Reality

As I wrote last month, this year’s main landscaping goal is to rejuvenate the overgrown front flower garden at the main house. It measures 11-13’ W x 106’ L and is probably a bit longer due to the garden’s undulating border. I’ve run into headwinds, as any gardener can empathize:

  • The weeding seems endless.
  • I dread digging out yet more bamboo roots that are as thick as sweet potatoes.
  • I ran out of wood-chip mulch very early.
  • Weeds poked through it just weeks after I’d set out wet cardboard and what I thought was a sufficiently deep layer of mulch. Chopped leaves to the rescue!
  • But that entails a whole other time-consuming (and dusty) process of chopping leaves with the bigger mower, collecting them with the smaller mower with bag attachment, then depositing them.

So, how am I keeping myself motivated to rejuvenate this formerly glorious flower garden?

My Ideal Garden

I keep envisioning a lush, beautiful space, one with a limited palette. Hopefully, it will provide year-long visual interest and attract pollinators, too. A simple aesthetic always appeals to me most – repetitive stretches of form and different hues of a few colors create a calming environment. This works for me even if the colors are vibrant and saturated, like the iconic red tulip. Calming doesn’t mean boring! To achieve this, I selected three fall-planted flowers: daffodils, hyacinths, and peonies.

Then I ordered more than 300 heirloom bulbs, 358 to be precise. 

Why these flowers and why so many?

A Sea of Heirlooms

They’re beautiful, long-lived, hardy perennials that are deer resistant, and some are deliciously fragrant. The cultivars that I chose are cream, pink, or coral. I love these tones in a spring garden, especially coral which I don’t see very often.  Although peonies can take a year or two to settle into their new home, they’re so exquisite that they’re worth the wait.

I ordered 358 bulbs just in case burrowing critters try to spoil my grand plan and also to avoid the appearance of what I call “pimple planting,” the effect of too few plants studding a wide swath of mulch.

Here is what I selected:

  • 50 Romance daffodils (the cup opens peach to coral)
  • 100 Louise de Coligny daffodils (described as apricot, but I consider that to be in the coral family)
  • 200 Gypsy Queen hyacinths (apricot; I wanted to dot them with dark purple hyacinths, but they were sold out)
  • 3 Frances Willard peonies (cream/blush)
  • 5 Hermione peonies (apple-blossom pink)

First, though, I have to finish preparing the bed which is going to be a slog.  And keep reminding myself to be patient since this flower garden rejuvenation is a years-long project. After this week of rain and yesterday’s snowfall, I’ll be out of the garden for the next several days, but that’s okay. My goal is to complete my fall planting by the first week of December.  Fingers crossed that Mother Nature cooperates!

Overgrown Gardens – Honoring the Past, Designing the Future

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When I bought the little house and the main house, both had stunning flower gardens that were no longer at their best. An avid amateur gardener and professional landscape horticulturist/garden designer created them, respectively; their exceptional taste is still apparent amidst the weeds. I recall seeing these overgrown gardens in their full glory, such a great inspiration. They deserve to be reclaimed; it has never occurred to me to rip them out and grass them over though that would be the far easier course of action.

While I’m grateful for the prior gardeners’ expertise and efforts, I have to decide how much of their aesthetic to keep and still realize my own. Among homeowners who are living with someone else’s extensive landscaping, I suspect I’m not alone in this predicament.

I’ve selected the flower bed pictured below for my first, multi-year garden reclamation project. I’ll discuss the specific plantings in a future post.

The Garden Details

Location: The garden lies between a lawn and a long stone wall; hayfields stretch behind the wall. Since it’s toward the bottom of a gentle slope the ground is slightly moist and well-drained.

Dimensions:  11-13’ W x 106’ L (probably a bit longer due to the garden’s undulating border)

Sun exposure:  full sun

Level of difficulty: 4 out of 5 stars

The Plan

First, remove the debris and weeds on both sides of the stone wall. Then lay down mulch. Lastly, install 350+ bulbs (hyacinths, daffodils, and peonies) this fall; this phase will be detailed further in a future post.

My debris and weed removal has been inefficient.

In Summer 2017, my sister and I spent several weekends cutting and removing weeds and Phragmites that bordered the hayfield side of the stone wall. Without clearing this area, there is no sight line from the house through the lawn and garden into the hayfields which is one of my main goals. We should have used mulch after we cut everything.

Then, in Fall 2018, I hired the main house’s wonderful garden designer to remove a few years of dead growth and weeds and do a hard cut back of certain specimen trees. I didn’t quite know what was in the garden and didn’t want to remove anything by mistake. I had him use mulch on another garden, but not this one. Bad decision!

The following spring, a dense wall of weeds and Phragmites sprouted once again.  However, I was busy working on other outdoor projects last year so I didn’t tend to this garden.

Which brings me to this spring and summer – and the pandemic which has forced me to work from home since mid-March.  In April and May, I cut back the bamboo, grasses, and weeds. Then the heat and humidity of summer drove me out of the garden.  From June through August, the bamboo shot back to almost four feet and a sea of tough grasses returned.

This month, I returned to the garden, determined to stop endless weeding by using the one thing that I have an almost irrational dislike of: mulch.

Mulch

I generally dislike mulch because I think it’s too visible in most gardens or it’s an awful color. However, I’ve accepted that it’s an essential for me, and I can control its visibility and color in my application.  Given the number and size of the gardens at both houses, I just don’t want to spend a fortune every year to replenish it.

Luckily, I have access to a yearly supply of free mulch but didn’t realize it until this year.

Wood Chips

When I pruned and cleaned around a row of maple trees two years ago, my tree guy chipped all the branches then hauled away truckloads of wood chips. One pile was left on-site for my sister’s gardening needs, but she never used it.  The wood chip pile sat, a slight eyesore under a layer of fallen leaves, for two years.

You may have guessed correctly: that wood pile decomposed into dark brown mulch. I found compost in the center, presumably the hottest section.

It takes an hour to shovel it into a cart attached to my riding mower, ride it back to the garden then shovel it in the garden. But, it’s so worth it!  I love that the land is giving back to itself – and it’s at no additional cost to me.

I’ve just bought a wood chipper, which I’ll discuss in a future Lush Heritage product review.  I’m very excited to make my own mulch and compost annually and keep the property neater looking at the same time.

Fallen Leaves

Chopped leaves are another good (and free) mulch and will be my second choice here. One benefit to owning so many big deciduous trees is that I have easy access to a huge amount of autumn leaves.  I only need to chop and bag them with my riding lawn mower, or shred them with my DR Leaf and Lawn Vacuum. I think I’ve timed this project just right – leaves have already begun to turn and fall.

Perfect Mulch Partners

Mulch can be even more effective when used with other materials. Plain, brown cardboard boxes and black-and-white newspapers provide an inexpensive, opaque layer beneath mulch and an extra assurance that no sunlight will penetrate the mulch. Also, unlike plastic landscaping fabric, as they decompose they’ll add beneficial organic matter to the soil.

I remove all tape and sticky labels from the boxes, break them down flat, then soak them with water using my garden hose. When they’re good and soggy I lay them on the freshly cut weeds in the garden, overlapping as I go then cover them with my wood-chip mulch.

The garden is so big, that I’m sure I’ll run out of cardboard long before I’m done covering the weeds. 

When that happens, I’ll lay down 6-8 sheets of water-soaked newspaper (black-and-white only), then cover that with my mulch. I may resort to plain brown shopping bags for the base layer before I start mulching bare ground.

That’s it for now.  I’ll update this project over the next several months.

Good luck to all of you who are also doing fall preparation in your flower and vegetable gardens!

Alliums in August – A Note of Appreciation

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Updated September 23, 2021: I discovered early this spring that the plants I described below are actually globe thistles, not alliums. Regardless, the sentiment remains the same.

Mid-summer brought a lovely surprise last week: alliums!  I shouldn’t have been surprised to see these hardy perennials, but I really was.

That’s because a mild drought has parched the lawns and made them bare in spots. Brief downpours have rejuvenated these patches – with unwanted crabgrass.  As I walked around the main lawn last week, I focused again on these unsightly areas. Not the sights and sounds of a summer morning in the country. I wondered how and when I was going to repair this blight.

And that’s when I came upon a profusion of golf-balled-sized white alliums. I hadn’t even noticed their arrival this year; I must have raced right by them on the riding mower for weeks.

Seeing the alliums’ spiky domes and plump bees noisily flitting from one to another instantly lifted my mood. I forgot about the crabgrass. Weeds that were interspersed with the alliums seemed to fade from view.

It’s so wonderful to behold these snowy pom-poms, and I’m grateful to whomever planted them. Although I probably would have opted for a lush planting of the showier Globemaster alliums, their smaller, pale cousins will remain an important element as I restore order to their bed.

Days after my “discovery,” I realized that I’ve rarely been on any of the lawns or in the gardens unless I’m on a mission: picking up branches and sticks, snipping an outcropping of pricker bushes, noting tunneling or holes; yanking weeds. By not slowing down, I’ve missed the quiet signs of the gardens’ life cycles and the short-lived opportunity to best enjoy, understand, and support them.

I wish I had picture-perfect landscape photos to share, but the transformation of this property continues to be a long, slow journey. That doesn’t mean that the beauty here isn’t still evident to me when I take a moment. Sometimes that happens as I remove yet another heavy coil of bittersweet to reveal a peony that just couldn’t bloom beneath its dense shade.

Or, when I’ve cleared a jungle of weeds to see a lone stem of pink phlox that soon attracts a hummingbird.

Or, when I spot a spray of alliums standing tall among the weeds.

Happy Summer, everyone!

Simply Summer: An Herb Garden and Round Hay Bales

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Although the days have become noticeably shorter, there’s still a lot of summer left to enjoy – and a lot of the growing season to appreciate. My herb garden and the round hay bales that dotted my fields last week are two small ways that I’m doing so.

My Herb Garden

I have grand plans to grow a vegetable garden like the ones my siblings and I helped our parents tend when we were kids. I’ve owned the main house for a little over two years now, but unfortunately, I haven’t had time to plant anything except grass and clover. That’s what I’ve told myself anyway.

This spring, at my sister’s urging, I decided to start small rather than not start at all.  I think any novice gardener could do the same, with great results.

Keeping It Simple

In early June, my sister and I transplanted a few potted, organic herbs that we bought at the supermarket. Basil and Italian parsley are now roommates in a rectangular planter. Thyme, oregano, rosemary, and sage live next door.  We transplanted them into whatever empty containers we found at our parents’ house. Then we topped up their soil with free, organic horse manure from a neighbor and leftover screened loam.

Weeds have invaded the pea gravel driveway. Only the sedum should be growing along the edge – and I’m not even sure about that being there. Another project!

It isn’t the prettiest set up on the stone wall along my driveway, but if I’d given much thought to this herb garden, I would have spent a ton of energy trying to make it perfect before I’d actually done anything. I would have researched for hours/days/weeks the right location, soil, fertilizer, and fencing. Raised beds or in-ground? Oh, and which of the dozen-plus types of basil and thyme should I buy?

Does this kind of over-preparation sound familiar in terms of how you plan too?

The herbs began to thrive almost immediately, especially the thyme. Bonus – they’re low maintenance. Due to infrequent rain, I’ve been watering them every 48 hours or so; potted herbs are much more prone to drying out than ones that are actually planted in the ground. I’ve plucked a few yellowed leaves from the basil and parsley but otherwise left my impromptu little herb garden alone. It’s a small miracle that critters haven’t been chomping on the herbs since they’re in the middle of a deer run and the rabbit population has exploded in the last few weeks.

Intended Consequences

The two biggest benefits:  One, it’s so much more economical to grow herbs than to buy them on a per-recipe basis; I used to throw out at least half of the herbs that I bought.  This summer, I just snip exactly what I need and leave the rest. Two, the addition of truly fresh herbs has seriously elevated the flavor of virtually every savory dish I’ve made since early June.

Just as important, this little herb garden did so well that it’s already encouraging me to think of a bigger venture next spring – even if it’s just one raised bed with some of my favorite vegetables. Cucumbers and summer squash, anyone?

The Hayfields

As readers of this site know, I bought much of my property to prevent it from being developed. Although many areas are still overgrown, the land has a seasonal beauty that constantly re-affirms my decision to conserve it.

Stretches of field grass and drifts of black-eyed Susans swaying in the wind is a lovely sight, but it’s still wonderful to see the hayfields’ contours again right after they’re cut. The hayfield below borders a long flower garden and two lawns. Since the fields are hayed just two to three times a year, haying seems to give the entire property an instant facelift.

I often see a herd of whitetail deer in this field as they emerge from the woods at dusk.
This area borders the field shown in the above photo.
The same field is shown in these photos. I was running ahead of the baler to take the second photo so I’m not in the same position. The grass had grown so long that I dared not venture into Tick City to take true “before” shots.

The father of one of my elementary school classmates has hayed these fields for decades; it’s comforting to have that kind of familiarity and continuity as I care for this land.  He and his crew are so fast that I hardly had enough time last week to take a few photos of their handiwork before they loaded the hay onto their truck.

Love the round bales!

The bale on the right has been speared for loading.

I may not have the vegetable garden of my dreams or own as much land as I’d like, but I enjoy what I have and I’m grateful to have it.

Fresh basil for homemade pesto and freshly cut hayfields for an unspoiled view: simple pleasures, simply summer.

Healthy Lawn Report: The First Mow of the Year

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Well, it happened. For the first time this year, the grass had grown so long that I had to mow it a few weeks ago.

Here’s a photo of the first mowed strip:

Can something be wonderful and awful at the same time?  I’d been watching the grass greening more every day for the past month or so, excited to see an undeniable sign of spring.  At the same time I was thinking: I am NOT ready to mow grass 5-6 hours a week. It really does take that long to mow the lawns at both houses.  The kicker is that I am reclaiming overgrown areas of lawn at both locations, which when completed will probably add another 20 minutes or so to my mowing time.

Really, though, I wouldn’t have it any other way.  I’ve always loved big, lush lawns. There were times during the past couple of years when I would be at work, longing to jump on a riding mower.  I never thought I’d be one of those people!

The first mow of the main lawn in progress. So much dead grass…

At the same time, I’m not interested in having a lawn that is the envy of all passersby. That means: no chemical weed suppressants, no sprinkler system, and infrequent soil amendments and use of organic fertilizers. Maybe after I complete my big outdoor projects in the next year or two I’ll devote more energy to the lawns.

As the youngest of seven, I can count on one hand the number of times I cut grass as a kid. I knew next to nothing about lawn care though we basically always had a beautiful front and back lawn.

I’ve recently learned a few things about grass, perhaps specific to my green patch:

Length Matters

If I want lower turf, I can cut my grass to 2.75 inches only until early July.  Thereafter, it’s just too hot and the sun will scorch the grass, turning my lawn into a burnt, brown mess.  Then, dormant weeds will grow – fast. Luckily, I discovered last year that once I start mowing at 3.5 inches high again, the lawn will recover quickly.

Based on my brother’s suggestion, I had cut it 2.75 inches high last year so that if I couldn’t cut it for two weeks, it wouldn’t be too long and create thick windrows when mowed. I think he would keep all grass at two inches if he could, but I prefer the lusher look and feel of taller grass. And I really didn’t expect to see a singed sward by mid-July by cutting it lower.

That shouldn’t be a problem this growing season. Since I’ll be working from home as I wait for the city in which I work to re-open fully, I can mow at 3.25 – 3.5 inches before I start work on any given day or during much of my lunch break so I can stay on top of things.

(Note:  I just purchased a manual reel mower whose highest cutting height is 2.75 inches, and I really love to use it on the secondary lawns and in tighter areas such as around the base of trees.  So…I’m sure I’ll be tempted to cut smaller spaces at that lower height as long as I can each year, especially since using a manual mower is great exercise.) 

Thatch

If it isn’t too thick, thatch may not be as bad as I thought; it’s a great weed suppressor. I know – probably no knowledgeable person agrees with me on this point. As I recounted in a post last year, the main lawn had a large area that had reverted to meadow and the remainder had a dense layer of thatch resulting from many years of grass clippings. Although it appeared perfect from afar, up close, the sward had several, small dead-ish areas and a spongy feel underfoot.

What it didn’t have was dozens and dozens of dandelions, which is what it has this year.  The front lawn is ablaze with them too.

This invasion is probably due to two main factors:

Successful Application of Liquid Dethatcher

I didn’t want the hassle and expense of renting or buying a dethatching machine since they can cause so much damage and not solve the problem. So, after researching I decided upon a natural liquid dethatcher. The product I chose uses bacteria and enzymes.  In combination with soil organisms, they speed up the natural decomposition process and convert the thatch into nutrient-rich humus which benefits the soil.

I used it only twice last spring and summer, but my lawn’s surface looked better over the course of last year so I think the product actually worked as advertised. I probably would have had even better results if I’d used it monthly, fertilized, and over-seeded, but I just didn’t have the time.

Removal of Old Thatch, Dead Grass, and Recently Cut Grass

Due to so many rainy days last spring and summer, I couldn’t mow every weekend and the grass was growing so fast that mulching was not an option. Whenever I did mow, it resulted in thick windrows hundreds of feet long.

Essentially, I had a three-layer cake of problems: old thatch, newer dead grass, and newly cut grass. But I also had a solution for each: the biological dethatcher decomposed the old thatch, the John Deere x370 riding mower really lifted the “newer” dead grass into its deep Accel mower deck and whisked it away into the attached waste disposal bags (it worked best when the clippings were dry as the chute easily clogs with wet or damp materials), and my sister and I spent hours on many a weekend morning raking and removing new and old clippings before it became too hot.

I think this combination helped to remove the last bits of decomposing thatch and aerate the soil a bit – and expose areas of sparser growth to sunlight which led to the eventual emergence of this year’s dandelions.

Grass Removal

About the grass removal:  The x370 is too small and slow for the amount of lawn I need to mow in a limited timeframe, especially when the grass is long and wet. The John Deere x590 is bigger and faster, but I haven’t attached mulching blades or waste disposal bags to it; doing the latter means that I can’t hitch a cart to it which is essential for me to move debris and small lawn care equipment around the property.  So, after my sister and couldn’t handle one more increasingly humid Sunday morning of manual labor, I bought waste disposal bags for the x370 which my brother attached.

What a game changer. If I end up with grass-killing windrows, I let the clippings dry in a few hours or overnight (assuming no rain!) then simply ride the x370 over them. I empty both bags a few times and have a very clean lawn.

This Year’s Lawn Goals

The photo at the top of this post shows part of the main lawn after the third mow this year.  I think it looks great so far, and the stone wall on the north end is still a lovely sight. I wrote a post last year about clearing in front of it, and it remains one of the projects that gives me the most satisfaction.

However, I think the lawns can be healthier and look even better with limited effort. My lawn goals this year are to:

  • Top dress (using my neighbor’s organic horse manure) and seed the barer spots of the lawns this spring so that I can choke out any other dormant weeds
  • Repair a hundreds-foot long strip of road-salt destroyed lawn and the sparse patches where the salt and sand flowed (in progress).
  • Top dress and over-seed all of the lawns this fall
  • Mow weekly (or bi-weekly!) so that I can simply mulch and not spend time removing grass-killing clippings;
  • Get rid of the dandelions!  They aren’t visible in the featured photo, but they seem to be multiplying daily. I bought a simple hand tool two days ago to pull them, tap roots and all, out of the ground.  I’ll report back on how well it works for me.

Good luck to all my fellow lawn care warriors!

More Spring Snow

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It’s mid-April, and this morning I woke up to the second snowfall in the last three weeks.  A thick layer of snow blanketed every branch, creating a stunning landscape. I never tire of seeing these wintry scenes as I hunker down inside feeling all lazy.

However, this is heavy snow, the kind that can snap branches. It’s also early spring and a number of plants have begun to bud or blossom so the potential for serious damage is high, as I can attest:

A freakish May snowfall killed my mother’s beloved white lilac bush when I was a kid. It was in full bloom when it met its demise. She would talk it about wistfully from time to time, even many years later.  With her gone now too, my sister and I still mention it occasionally with the same sadness. Are we all crazy?  No, we just loved that fragrant beauty, the grand dame of a group of lilacs that rimmed the house and the porch off the kitchen.  We enjoyed a lot of alfresco meals surrounded by their perfume, which are some of my absolute favorite childhood memories.

All in a Day’s Work

So, while the snow was winding down I spent about an hour this morning knocking it off the lilacs and the more vulnerable-looking evergreens.  Sadly, I discovered that a large lilac branch next to the little house had sheared off overnight. I’ll assess the damage to the bush later. On a happier note, the drooping yew branches in the photo below snapped upright as soon as I removed the dense snowcap. Sometimes it’s helpful to find a fallen tree limb since that turned out to be the perfect tool.

The low branch on the left snapped off a lilac bush, dragging down yew branches with it. The yews are tough, persisting even under brutal northerly winds and voracious deer that have snacked on them for years. The stubs are fabulous rugosa roses that were whacked last fall by the town’s highway department, a complete outrage that elicited an apology from the head of the department.

With icy crystals showering down on me and my ill-chosen gloves soon soaked, I kept at it as chunks of snow plopped onto the ground.  Satisfying work and immediate results – not a bad way to start the day.

And, of course, it’s supposed to be about 60 degrees (16⁰ C) tomorrow.  The snow is already starting to melt as I write this post around noontime.

Happy Spring, everyone!

Tree Report: Losing an Old Tree

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It isn’t the grandest tree or the oldest tree. I’m not even sure what kind of tree it is.  Some type of apple, I think.

It stands about 20 feet tall with a 15-foot spread, just right for its space:  it anchors both the corner of a barn and a smaller side lawn. And is tough enough to have weathered decades of harsh New England winters and the cutting of several of its large branches that had probably fallen victim to previous storms.

Then came the heavy rain and high winds that pummeled the area the day after Easter this year.

I was working from home, sitting at a desk with a view of the front lawn. Just a few small branches had fallen by mid-afternoon, a small miracle. Periodically, I looked outside to see if any trees near the house had sustained serious damage but didn’t see (or hear) anything that concerned me.

Then, in the early evening, my sister noticed that this beautiful tree was split.

I’d like to conserve everything here. Nature, however, will always ultimately control what gets conserved and for how long.

A Suitable Replacement – Just in Case

Part of me thinks my brother can saw off the almost-severed branch, then the lopsided tree will be fine. Under that scenario, the remaining heavy branch won’t create such an imbalance as to pose a threat to people or property. The most hopeful part of me thinks I can fasten some kind of tourniquet around the tree which will then mend it itself together again.

Truthfully, I don’t think either option will work long-term. I’m trying to make peace with the high probability that even though the tree is still in front of me, it’s really already gone.

I hate to lose old trees. They’re so singularly appealing that I can’t think of anything that can readily replace one – except another tree.

These stately and hardy trees are showing some age. No replacement could approximate them in my lifetime. I believe the evergreens are Norway spruces.

So, as upset as I was to discover the substantial damage to this tree, I also began thinking almost immediately of a suitable substitute, if needed. Off the top of my head, I considered the following three possibilities. Coincidentally, they’re all growing here so they’re all free!

The Young Crabapple

It’s growing in the middle of the “connector field” between the main house and the little house. The biggest negative is that it’s rather spindly, and I’d prefer something more substantial to fill the space. Since it’s a pain to mow around in its current location, I’m pretty sure I’ll transplant it to the edge of a hayfield in the next year or two.

The Old Crabapple

At least, that’s what I think the tree in the below photo is.  I don’t recall it ever bearing fruit, maybe because there’s no compatible pollinator nearby. And, as often happens when I envision the size of specific plants or areas of the property, I was wildly off about this tree until I was actually standing in front of it. This potential substitute is much larger than I thought, too big to transplant on my own, and may not even survive the trauma of being uprooted.

Such a messy area, but I couldn’t get to it last fall. I’m going to eradicate the large stand of bamboo to the left of this tree, half of which is out of frame. The dead canes from prior years partially obscure the stone wall.

The Poorly Positioned Lilac

I don’t think any of my lilac varieties is a tree, but some are big enough that they may as well be.  One lilac bush is poorly positioned near a row of large deciduous trees. At this time of year, it gets a decent amount of sunlight, but once the trees’ leaves unfurl, it’s in a pretty heavily shaded area. I think this is why it isn’t thriving and has never blossomed. The new location offers full sun.

I’ve wanted to transplant this lilac for years. And yet, I’m not convinced that this is the best substitute for the split tree.  A row of smaller lilac bushes already borders the barn, behind the tree in question, and I’d like keep a bit more variety here.  And, as I noted above, I really would like a more substantial plant there so it doesn’t look too empty.

Yet another messy area, but I couldn’t get to it last fall either. This is part of the little house’s lawn. It needs topsoil and re-seeding.

Other Small Standouts

My next possibilities will likely cost a fair amount of money since I’d want a decent-sized specimen. Though I usually prefer native plants, I’m not a purist:

  1. Azalea. This is my sister’s suggestion. Although I don’t care for rhododendrons, I love azaleas’ colorful blooms. It isn’t a tree either, but I may be patient enough to plant a cultivar that will resemble a small tree several years from now. Evergreen and deciduous varieties both seem to do well around here. Our mother planted an evergreen azalea with bright purplish pink blossoms near her and my father’s bedroom window decades ago, and it’s still going strong. And I have a big deciduous azalea with pale violet blooms at my house.
  2. Kousa Dogwood. Several mature specimens border the main lawn and have an outstanding display of white blooms.
  3. Japanese Maple. Two or three of these show offs grow at the end of a long garden bed across from the main house.
  4. Magnolia.  I don’t know which cultivar could work for this space, but every magnolia tree I’ve ever seen has spectacular blossoms.
  5. Redbud.  There are so many varieties, and they all seem to have lovely blooms.  One of my local nurseries usually offers dozens of Eastern Redbuds of varying sizes.
  6. Hawthorn.   I’ve only seen photos of this tree, but I think it would be a splendid accent next to the lilac bushes and the old barn.
  7. Japanese Tree Lilac. I do love lilacs! Maybe a lilac tree in front of a row of lilac bushes would be just fine after all…

Next Steps

So, what will I do with this tree? I’ll ask my brother to saw off the split branch if my tourniquet idea turns out to be pure fantasy.

And if I lose the tree altogether, I have no idea what I’ll put in its place. However, just knowing there are so many beautiful substitutes will likely reduce the sting of the loss. It might also lessen future inevitable heartache as other trees will eventually succumb to age, pests, animals, disease and/or weather.

Photographs of this property from over a century ago show an array of massive trees (and, at one point, an impressive group of flowering dogwoods) long since gone. And yet, there are so many worthy successors here today. Previous conscientious owners made sure of that though they knew they’d never see the full fruits of their labors. It’s my turn to continue that steadfast tradition.

Tree Report: Eliminate Invasive Vines, Save a Tree

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It’s important to remember during these stressful times that just being outside can be a great stress reliever. Mindful gardening can be therapeutic. Some of the luckiest among us can go outdoors during this health crisis, get much-needed exercise, and enjoy nature’s lovely spring awakening – all while practicing physical distancing. I suspect that many people will forego hiring landscapers and manage their own lawns this year.

In mid-March, I left the city in which I work and returned home to my small New England town. I’ll be working from here until further notice, grateful that I can do so.  Last week, I began taking 30 minutes during lunch to clean up fall/winter debris. I do this while talking to my sister who’s also working from home. It’s a great way to break up the day and make real progress in manageable chunks.

Due to rain last week, my sister and I raked leaves and chestnut husks for hours on Sunday afternoon.

In addition to the usual spring cleanup activities of raking leaves, picking up sticks and branches, fertilizing/re-seeding lawns, and preparing flower beds and vegetable gardens, I’d like to mention an activity that may be overlooked: de-vining trees.

Why Worry About Vines?

To my surprise, I’ve discovered that some creeping vines can kill trees. That’s troubling enough, but one of the easiest ways to retain property value is to have healthy, mature trees. Why let some pipsqueak weed threaten all of nature’s hard work and likely your biggest investment?  Also, trees do a wonderful job of cleaning the air so eliminating their potential killers could help lessen negative environmental impact.

Several rows of large trees border stone walls and lend a stately air to my old homestead. One runs along the side lawn next to my driveway. I think it’s gorgeous. Below is what it looked like about 10 days ago, courtesy of an early spring snowfall – not an unusual occurrence in these parts.

Unfortunately, a rotten mix of poison ivy, Oriental bittersweet, multiflora roses, grapevines, and all kinds of unknown vining plants is smothering dozens of my other trees. They’ve blanketed many precious lilac bushes too.

How Bad Can Vining Plants Get?

Yes, They Really Can Kill Trees (and Suppress Other Desirable Vegetation)

Left unchecked, bittersweet can grow to the top of the canopy, depriving a tree of sunlight, nutrients, and water. It can become as thick as a tree, carving deep into the trunk as it girdles it, and literally bend it to the ground. It can also break trees under snow or ice conditions. And, by creating a heavily shaded understory, it makes it difficult for other plants to thrive.

My sister cut the killer vine in the below photo with a chainsaw, but it was clearly too late to save the tree. Not to be overly dramatic, but it was a sickening sight two years ago, and it remains so today.

This tree had been forced to grow at almost a 45-degree angle under the unrelenting pressure of these “anacondas.”

Two weeks ago, we discovered a younger patch of these aggressive vines climbing the trees that rim the pond.  As thick as my pinky finger and as taut as guitar strings, these trip hazards hugged the ground for 10-12 feet until they locked onto the nearest tree.  We’d never seen bittersweet grow quite like that elsewhere on the property and cut what we could.

They Become Uglier with Age and Make Trees Look Ugly Too

Poison ivy is another bad-news vine. As it ages, it resembles a thick, furry rope as its rootlets latch onto the host tree, climbing to the very top. It’s non-lethal but unsightly to the say the least. Beautiful tree forms become shapeless under a sheet of invaders’ leaves. If you carelessly try to remove poison ivy, you’ll rip the bark off the tree right along with it. Severe bark removal will kill a tree.

This lovely tree is host to poison ivy and bittersweet. These trees border a stone wall at the northern end of the main lawn. I couldn’t even see the vines until I cleared all the brush in front of the stone wall. I snipped them the day before taking this photo. They wither quickly but may not necessarily be easier to disentangle from the branches.
I’d snipped a chunk out of this vine the day before this photo was taken.

They Can Camouflage Other Problems

Sometimes these crawlers are perfect deceivers. You don’t realize you have an unhealthy tree underneath them – whether due to insect infestation, disease, etc. – so you don’t take preventative measures.

For example, I thought a large, healthy tree in one of the fields just had four-foot high growth around the trunk. Unfortunately, when my sister and I cleared all the bittersweet and multiflora roses from around it in early fall 2017 we discovered that this tree was defoliated and dead. The vines were so thick and had reached the ends of every branch that they had mimicked the appearance of a healthy tree.  I don’t know what killed the tree, but if I’d been able to see it, I could have called an arborist to see if anything could have been done to save it.

The Solution

Luckily, I learned how to eradicate these climbers three years ago.

I walked a good portion of the property and noted how so many trees were under attack. Then I asked the previous owner and her gardener, both sensitive to environmental impact, what I should do.

They both said I should snip the vines close to the ground then dab the cut surface with herbicide. The chemical is absorbed into the targeted plant’s root system and does not remain in the soil. This control method is not the same as using a non-selective spray herbicide that kills everything it comes into contact with, including the grasses, plants, and flowers you want to keep.

Special Considerations

As effective as that sounded, I worried about using that chemical near my pond. It’s a sensitive habitat that is home to wood frogs and other animal species specific to it. Although certain herbicides are formulated for use in and around water, I’m leery of them. Unless and until I get comfortable with their application so close to the pond, I plan to cut, brush hog, and mow (and possibly re-seed) the area until the grass grows to the edge of the pond once again. Frequent mowing should keep the vining plants in check.

So, here’s what I did in the non-wetlands areas:

Identify the Target

First, I identified the vines with the help of the former owner and her gardener when I was unsure of what was growing, then decided what to keep. I learned that climbing hydrangeas grow on the maple trees featured in the wintry photo above. These slow growers are beautiful and coveted by many gardeners, and I was happy that I didn’t just cut everything without researching. The previous owner’s well-intentioned son actually cut some of the climbing hydrangeas years ago, mistaking them for unwanted vines!

Kill Only When Necessary

Second, I have countless Concord grapevines, but I’m always reluctant even to cut them – maybe because I love the their scent and remember them growing at our house when I was a kid. That said, they can become so dense and heavy that they bend – and break – branches. If a break exposes live tissue, a tree can become more vulnerable to decay and disease. I’m still trying to devise a solution. I may train some of the vines on posts for a more elegant appearance and easier access to the fruit.

Third, for certain light infestations, such as where multiflora roses were colonizing on the northern edge of the main lawn, I simply cut the plants and began mowing over them weekly.  Frequent cutting can be effective – you just have to keep at it.

When It’s Time, Be Ruthless

Lastly, for certain heavy infestations, I killed the aggressors. I knew that if I didn’t they would return within weeks or months, possibly denser than before. My fear became reality after my sister and I spent hours one day cutting and pulling all the bittersweet from this holly bush.

Photo taken on March 31, 2020

What holly bush, you ask?  Exactly. Whatever we cut sprouted ten suckers which sprouted another ten suckers, and so on.  It actually looks worse now than it did before we tried to save it. I wish we’d implemented the “cut and kill” control method.

Is It Ever Defensible to Use Herbicides?

In my opinion, yes.

I am not a cavalier user of herbicides. My property needs to be safe for me and my family, wildlife, and non-targeted plants. I don’t want any chemical runoff to harm my neighbors either. Two ways I’ll never use herbicides: in pursuit of the “perfect lawn” or on grapevines, raspberry bushes, blackberry bushes, or other food sources.

Many people are adamantly opposed to their application under any circumstance. I get it. I prefer a non-toxic, organic remedy when practicable.

However, dozens of trees deserved immediate relief from the onslaught, and I didn’t know how long it would take to discover a natural, effective remedy. Also, when I researched Oriental bittersweet, my worst offender, I learned that various states’ departments of natural resources and schools of agricultural sciences recommend the use of herbicides on heavy infestations.

For the health of the trees, to promote diversity of good, native vegetation, and to benefit the overall environment, I bought an herbicide with triclopyr as the gardener suggested.

Responsible Herbicide Use Is Hard Work

For hours at a time, I walked, snipped, and dabbed every unwanted weed (creeping and non-creeping, skinny- and thick-stemmed) I could that first year. I also carefully pulled severed, dangling vines out of the trees. Over several weeks. Even with my sister’s frequent help, to say it was painstaking is an understatement. Some of the cuttings (without the herbicide) were added to existing brush piles which are shelters for smaller animals. The remainder went into my tree guy’s wood chipper when he was on-site doing a big job. I’m now wondering if I should have had all of the cuttings chipped to lessen the possibility of re-rooting.

I didn’t target certain plants like jewelweed, though I have drifts of them, in part because they attract pollinators.

The payoff became apparent in the second year when I noticed that a 100+ foot long row of large deciduous trees was still free of the vines that I’d treated.

I repeated the process the second year and noticed the same lack of re-growth during spring and summer 2019.

Success!

Long-Term Plans

However, I’m not posting photos of this area yet since it needs another big fix: a long, barren swath of formerly overgrown hay fields next to these trees needs to be re-seeded. It’s blanketed with a thick layer of mulch-like debris left by a landscaper whom I hired to clear thick brush two years ago.  I’ll share this fix in a separate post.

I still have A LOT of ground to clear of these climbers and will resume this task once the weather cooperates. Triclopyr requires at least 24 hours of no rain after application and is best used when the targeted plant is most active. This is so the roots will absorb the herbicide quickly. As for that tight-growing bittersweet that I cut a couple of weeks ago, I left the shoots about a foot high so I can easily go on a “cut and kill” mission soon.

It’s hard to balance my vision against the number and scope of outdoor projects I want to complete and my limited free time. Then there’s the fact that there will be some weekends when I’ll want to just relax. It’ll likely take at least another year or two of intensive eradication efforts before I’ll be in maintenance mode.

Beautiful Results

Besides saving wonderful trees, another good thing about freeing them like this is that they instantly look better without all those unsightly, suffocating climbers.

Here are before and after photos of a tree that my sister and I “liberated” in fall 2017. We finished in well under an hour, and what a difference!

This is at the edge of a hayfield.

Conservation and Herbicides: An Unlikely Match

Conserving my green patch responsibly is a serious undertaking that will require perpetual vigilance and effort. It’s worth it. By using an herbicide I took expedient action that, in theory, made me uncomfortable. In practice, I knew it was the right thing to do. I respect if others feel different.

Are your trees, or the trees lining your town’s roadways, smothered by ugly, potentially lethal vines? I’m now acutely aware of this phenomenon as I travel by car and train in the Northeast; it’s shocking to see mile after mile of trees so heavily draped. I wonder how much longer they’ll survive, and what the landscape will look like if they succumb or people just cut them down instead of eradicating the invaders.

Whatever the course of action taken by individual property owners and highway departments, we should all be patient, persistent, and environmentally friendly.

Lush Heritage Product Review: DR PRO XL 30 (20HP) Field and Brush Mower

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Summary

The DR PRO XL30 (20 HP) Field and Brush Mower (a/k/a “brush hog,” “bush hog,” and “brush cutter”) is an essential workhorse piece of equipment for the DIY landowner with expansive, seriously overgrown areas or areas that are intentionally cut only a few times a year. Not ideal for the physically weak and/or out-of-shape individual. The fixed height of the handles may be uncomfortable for people who are much shorter or taller than average. Owners of smaller lots should determine if renting makes more financial sense than buying, however, I’ve seen only competitors’ products for rent locally.

Date Purchased:  Early 2017

Cost: About US$3,000 as I recall, and I’m pretty sure I bought it on sale. DR Power often has good sales so it’s worth it to check their website frequently if you’re thinking of buying any of their products.

Does It Work As Advertised?

Definitely yes. The DR PRO XL30 (20 HP) Field and Brush Mower gets the highest 5-star rating on DR Power’s own website and high praise on user videos for good reason. You will conk out long before it will.  I have used it on 6-foot saplings, dense low brush, and a thicket of towering Phragmites (tough, invasive grass that thrives in wetter soil).

Here’s a short video of me using it in July 2019. I’ve used this brush hog in worse growth but didn’t record it. To get some sense of how high the growth is, I’m 5 feet 8.5 inches tall.

The Phragmites grows about thirty feet to my right in the above video. Below is a photo of it; I think it stood at least 10-12 feet tall by the middle of last summer. Its density, height, and strength make it a formidable foe, but the brush hog still cut through it. I’m pretty sure I made at least two passes since the grass height exceeded the product’s stated limitations.

Special Considerations

Although I am a big fan of this brush hog, I’ve found that it works best on straighter growth and firm ground.  Vining plants can get run over and lie down under the substantial weight of the DR PRO XL30 (20 HP) Field and Brush Mower rather than get cut at its fixed 4-inch cutting height. Multiflora roses and burning bush grow more irregularly as they mature, and their branches can extend 8 feet or more. For plants like that, I prefer to lop off the outer branches with clippers or a weed whacker/string trimmer then decimate the more uniform remainder with the DR.

Also, I haven’t tested the fuel efficiency, but this brush hog seems to a bit of a gas hog.  After a couple of hours of work I have to re-fill the tank, but maybe that’s normal for a machine of this size and weight. Fortunately, I have two five-gallon gas cans that I fill before I start my weekend projects so I’ve never had to stop working to get more fuel.

Real-World Application

Why I Use It

I mostly use my DR to cut thick weeds and brush (rather than long grass) on land that is flat or has as much as a 30-degree or more incline. No lawn mower can tackle that type of growth. This will allow me to replant lawn or field grass, or to encourage the existing grass to predominate once again over unwanted vegetation.

The DR PRO XL30 (20 HP) Field and Brush Mower is a well-designed beast of a machine with an easy electric start and 30-inch cutting width that carves a nice, wide swath through brush and weeds; per DR Power’s website, that deck cuts mowing time by 15% (versus using the DR PRO 26 [26-inch cutting width]). That knocks off 9 minutes for every hour of effort, and every minute counts when you have limited time or energy. I don’t regret not buying the next size up, the PRO MAX 34 (34-inch cutting width), as that would have been just too big and cumbersome for me to use.

How I Use It

Some areas of my property are perpetually softer than others or particularly rocky, so I prefer to use the brush hog after several days of no rain and after I’ve surveyed the area and reminded myself where hidden obstacles are.

Pushing or pulling its several hundred pounds instead of following my brother’s mantra of “let the machine do the work” is tiring and increases the probability of personal injury. So, I just maintain a firm grip and (try to) avoid obstacles as the machine self-propels and handily cuts everything in its path. With this method I can cover a lot of ground in a relatively short period of time with less wear-and-tear on my body. I do not feel that I am pushing myself anywhere near my limit when I use the brush hog on average, thick brush.

Its three speeds provide flexibility depending on the task, the amount of time I have, and how physically strong I feel on any given day: first gear (slow) for traversing rugged ground or cutting tougher growth without having to do subsequent passes; second gear (medium) for cutting straighter weeds and saplings on flatter ground; and third gear (fast) for walking quickly to and from the job site. At times, I’ve gotten hung up on treacherous terrain or in vicious weeds, but the reverse promptly gets me out of trouble. Lastly, the ease of shifting gears lets me decide the best cutting path (e.g., long parallel passes on a hillside at varying speeds depending on the vegetation/ground conditions versus shorter, perpendicular cuts).

How Tough Is It

While I’m using it, tough vines snake around the wheels at times, but it never slows down. After months of non-use, it has quickly started in 30 degrees Fahrenheit (-1 Celsius). Mice have built thick nests inside it (I didn’t realize this after the first winter and used it without checking), but it started and ran without a problem. It has also taken a lot of “abuse” in three years. I’ve hit several large rocks and tree stumps, but due to its pivoting brush deck, the machine absorbs a lot of the shock. And it still operates as good as new.

Don’t Overdo It

Once you get the hang of operating the DR Pro XL30 (20 HP) Field and Brush Mower you may be tempted to wipe out every unwanted plant, but it pays to know your limits. One day, I brush hogged for six hours; when I woke up the next morning my hands were as stiff as meat hooks – and they were like that every morning for several weeks afterward.

Benefits

You’re in Control

  • The DR PRO XL30 (20 HP) Field and Brush Mower puts you in control of your landscaping, on your own terms and your own timeframe. In conjunction with relatively inexpensive items like a chainsaw, hand clippers, and a lawnmower, you’re no longer at the mercy of a contractor who will probably quote you a prohibitively high price to clear your overgrowth and still not leave your property the way you envisioned it. No more waiting around for an overbooked contractor to show up or worrying about what else his regular crew or seasonal help may be doing on your property when you’re not at home.
  • Since you’re doing the work yourself, you can make last-minute decisions about whether to save specific trees or other plants. I lost a few good-sized willow trees a couple of years ago because I told my landscaper to clear an area. I can’t blame him, but if I’d cleared it myself and seen all those furry little catkins covering the branches, I would have saved those trees.

Great Return on Investment

  • If you have a multi-year landscaping plan like I do, buying this machine is a one-time investment that gives you flexibility and peace of mind. It’s a hassle to keep renting and transporting a brush hog to and from your property, hoping that the make and model that you want is available when you want it. No more praying that the weather will cooperate during your rental period. No more rushing to return it on time to avoid a late charge just as you’re getting into a groove and want to keep clearing that massive patch of blackberry bushes. It’s there whenever you want to use it.
  • Almost no amount of overgrowth (when the brush hog is used as intended) will seem daunting once you clear your first area. The more you use the DR PRO XL30 (20 HP) Field and Brush Mower, the more you’ll want to use it and the more money you’ll save in the long run. It will likely pay for itself in a couple of years.

Precise Results

  • Unlike bigger machines like a Bobcat with attachment, the DR PRO XL30 (20 HP) allows you to do more precise work in tighter spaces, greatly reducing the likelihood that you’ll wipe out a flower bed or shrubbery you want to keep because you can’t tell where you are while sitting in a cab.
  • Given its inherent limitations, the DR PRO XL30 (20 HP) forces you to cut bigger trees by hand – this leads to clean, close-to-surface cuts and not the heavy, jagged, mulch-like debris that a large machine typically leaves behind. You can then more quickly sow grass, prepare garden beds, etc. and start enjoying your property sooner.  If you’re lucky (I wasn’t), your big machine-loving contractor will remove the debris, but it’ll probably cost you extra.

Easy Operation, Transport, and Storage

  • Unlike those big machines that can only be rented for a lot of money and for which you feel like you need a state-issued license to operate, the DR PRO XL30 (20 HP) Field and Brush Mower is easy to learn how to use. The salesman showed me the basic operating features in the parking lot, then my brother gave me a 10-minute demonstration at home. After that, I was comfortably using it on my own.  WARNING:  This is not to say that that this isn’t a potentially dangerous piece of equipment, even with its safety features such as a “dead man” switch. It definitely is, and the operator assumes all risk of injury when using it.
  • The DR is portable. My brother loads it in the back of his pickup truck if we need to transport it from my house to our parents’.  When I’m using it on my property, I just put in in third gear and quickly walk it to wherever I plan to use it. Others may feel like the machine is running away from them in third gear, but it works for me and sometime even feels a bit easier to handle since I can walk pretty fast and not get hung up on uneven terrain.
  • While the DR PRO XL30 (20 HP) is expensive, it’s much cheaper than a tractor – and smaller. Granted, it can’t do everything a tractor can, but you have to decide if you really need to spend five figures when the mighty DR will more than satisfy your needs.  Also, if you prefer to store your equipment inside, the DR will more easily fit in a garage or tool shed. I store mine in my barn.

Can the Average Woman Use This?

Yes, with a few caveats:

Heft and Power

  • Be honest about how physically strong you are. Plenty of men and women simply cannot handle this machine in a safe manner.
  • At several hundred pounds with a 20HP engine, this is a heavy and powerful piece of equipment, and at times it takes brute strength to move it if it gets bogged down in soft soil or to maintain control if you get overly ambitious and run it over a three-inch diameter tree.
  • With its power steering, this brush hog can “whip” very quickly to the left and right once you squeeze the correct lever so you need to be prepared for the forceful turn to maintain control.
  • In addition, the DR PRO XL30 (20 HP) Field and Brush Mower can tip back very quickly and go vertical as it “climbs” a tree while shredding it; you need to keep a firm grip on it so it doesn’t up-end with the handles suddenly near your knees (this happens to me every once in a while, but it doesn’t phase me).
  • Lastly, depending on what you’re cutting, the machine can feel like it’s jerking forward and pull you along with it. One way I combat this is to walk pretty close to the DR. I don’t operate it with my arms fully extended; I’d never have the leverage to control it that way.

Hand Size and Strength

  • The handles seem designed with men’s larger hands in mind. You have to depress the top right lever to move forward, and if you want to move left or right you have to depress the appropriate bottom lever at the same time.
  • If my hands were a smidge smaller or weaker I don’t think I’d be comfortable using it as I’d have to grip the handles much harder than I normally do (if that’s even possible). Still, I control it fairly easily, even when on extra rugged terrain or tackling really tough overgrowth. But, then again, I have a bad habit of gripping tools too tightly when I use them, probably out of fear that my hands are too small or weak to use them properly.

Pros and Cons

Pros Cons
Powerful/well constructed Expensive
Not complicated to operate Heavy for some
Electric start Cut height is not adjustable (4”)
Power steering Questionable fuel economy
Three forward speeds/one reverse Performs better on straighter growth
“Dead-man” switch safety feature  
Relatively compact size  
Accepts all optional attachments (42” lawn mower deck, grader/snow blade, snow thrower, and chipper) – I do not own any of them nor have I used any.  

The Verdict

The DR PRO XL30 (20 HP) Field and Brush Mower is big, powerful, and nimble. It cuts thick vegetation with ease, making a nightmarish landscape manageable for the average homeowner. The biggest drawbacks are that it’s relatively expensive and can be challenging for some to operate. However, I consider it one of the most critical items in my land management arsenal, and I would gladly buy it again.

Lush Heritage Product Reviews: Landscaping Equipment

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I’ve decided to review some of the products that I’ve bought and used to reclaim/maintain my 25+-acre property in the hopes that it may help others make more informed purchasing decisions.  Product reviews are sometimes written in exchange for free products, rendering the reviews suspect, or they’re just cut-and-paste summaries from the manufacturers’ own websites, limiting their usefulness. And because I’ve found that most machine and tool product reviews are written by and for men, I plan to highlight from time to time some issues that may be of particular interest to other women.

For comparison’s sake:

1. I’m a bit taller than the average woman (5 feet 8½ inches tall) and in relatively decent physical shape. On a strength scale of 1-10, with 10 being the strongest, I’d say I’m a 7.5.

2. I prefer to buy more machine than I think I need at the outset but that is still within my relatively conservative comfort zone to use.

3. Ease of operation is paramount. Using mechanical stuff is usually not self-evident to me so I shy away from buying anything that is complicated or otherwise difficult to use.

4. I avoid dealing with anything manual (ignition, gear shifts, etc.) whenever possible. I could drive a stick shift in a dire emergency (and likely damage the transmission), but I hope I’m never in that situation!

5. I tend to be hard on equipment: I try to be careful, but I seem to hit every rock possible when I’m mowing or brush hogging. I also have a bad habit of twisting keys in ignitions hard enough for them to bend in just a few months of regular use.

6. Lastly, I’m frugal, but I will spend a decent chunk of change on an item when it makes long-term sense. I do believe that you get what you pay for. That said, I’m not averse to buying re-conditioned equipment, depending on the item and my intended purpose/goal.

Just a friendly reminder: Individuals assume all risks and liabilities associated with their purchase and/or use of the products mentioned on this website and/or any acts or omissions that are based (in whole or in part) on any content on this website.

Now, let’s see what I’ve been using…

Where’d You Go, Lush Heritage?

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Early readers of this site noticed that it went into “maintenance mode” during late 2019/early 2020.

Here’s what happened:  I had a few technical issues with the site, and unfortunately, while trying to fix them I wiped out most of my Spring through Autumn 2019 posts – distressing, but not the end of the world.

I really was buzzing around doing things around the main house during most of that time, kind of like the hummingbird in the photo! I noticed it outside a kitchen window one morning last August.

I’m happily back in the dead of winter and plan to resume regular updates.

Thanks for reading!

Reclaimed Wood Desk: Home Office Centerpiece

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I’m so excited to share photos of my “new” reclaimed wood desk!

But, first, here’s how it came to be:

The main house has five bedrooms. I simply don’t need that many and decided to use one of the smaller ones as my home office. So far, so good. However, I had no idea how expensive office desks are until I started looking for one in 2018. I wanted a plain, large desk, preferably white or made of light-colored wood. Drawers were optional. Solid construction and top-grade materials were not. The few that I liked cost around a thousand dollars, which seemed an absurd amount to pay.

Months into my frustrating search, my sister asked why I didn’t just look in one of the barns (I have two) that had a lot of old wooden boards stacked inside.

Why hadn’t I thought of this before? I could save a lot of money and have a custom piece of furniture made – likely from trees that had been cut from that very property generations ago.

Out of Frustration Comes a Plan

So, on a frigid January afternoon, we searched the barn and collected the dusty boards shown in the below photo and a few others. We tried to match wood type, thickness, and length. We didn’t quite know what we had, but we were hopeful.

Circular saw marks are clearly visible on these boards, which many people like to see in old, reclaimed wood.

Now all I needed was a skilled artisan to execute the plan at a price I could afford. Luckily, my brother fit the bill – he just didn’t know it yet. I asked him if he would build a desk for me – he’s very handy and detail-oriented so I wasn’t at all concerned that he would butcher this precious wood and make a hideous desk. I told him my wish list: I wanted the desk to be at least 55″ W x 30″ D and for the character of the wood to be preserved as much as possible. That meant no stain and no high gloss; I wanted to see the natural color, luster, and grain as much as possible.

Fortunately, he said yes! But, he could work on it only during his spare time, which he doesn’t have a lot of, and he’d need to use one of his co-worker’s tools and woodshop. His co-worker, whom I’ll refer to as “J,” is also a craftsman and fortunately for me, generous.

But Maybe I Should Have Bought a Desk After All…

I heard only snippets as months passed: sanding released a strong “animal scent” that took over J’s woodshop for a few days; one board was too warped to use; one of my brother’s co-workers had assumed my wood was company property and cut the end off another board (which prompted my brother to secure the wood in a locked area).

I stared at the few photos he texted, trying to figure out what he was really working with. Would the desk have yellow undertones? If so, it would clash with the cooler palette I was envisioning. Was the wood that dark, or was it still drying from the power wash? Would he have enough material to build the deep desk that I wanted?

Since my brother was doing a huge favor for me, I resisted the gnawing temptation to ask him every week for an update. In fact, months passed in between the few times I asked him how it was going.

So, I waited. And waited. And waited.

A Small Christmas Miracle

Then, a few days before Christmas, my brother brought home this spectacular desk:

Final dimensions: 56.75″W x 32″D x 30″H. He estimates that it weighs more than a hundred pounds; no wonder, as the top boards are 1.75 inches thick. We think the wood is oak or maple. As I requested, he left the nail and worm holes intact.

The photos don’t do this reclaimed wood desk justice. I’m thrilled with how beautiful and well-made it is. This is recycling and upcycling at its finest!

What Lies Beneath Is Just As Pretty

Circular saw marks are plainly visible on the underside; my brother planed the top just enough so that I wouldn’t get splinters. Others may have preferred to keep the deeper saw marks on top, but it wouldn’t have been a truly usable desk without the use of a glass top or desk pad; I didn’t want to use either. If I want a more rustic look, I can flip the top (with assistance because it’s so heavy). The desk is so large that it can also be a dining table that seats four.

The board on the far left has a deep groove running along the right side. The boards are not perfectly flush on the underside, but I think this surface is just as pretty as the top.
Here is a close-up of the underside.

Final Thoughts

Many thanks to the prior owners for saving these boards, to my sister for suggesting that I re-purpose them, and to my brother and J for their time, tools, and expertise.

One of the benefits of owning such an old property is that I’m finding little treasures all over the place. I hope to use many of them for other landscaping and interior decorating projects which I’ll detail here when I can.

Lastly, since this reclaimed wood desk didn’t cost me a penny, I was able to splurge on a few other home office items. The room is still a work-in-progress, but I’ll share photos when it’s ready!

Clearing Vines and Small Trees: A Classic Stone Wall Revealed

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If you’ve read my post (and updates!) concerning The Main Lawn, you know that one of my 2019 goals is to clear the brush that is hiding the stone wall that runs along its northern edge.

Stone walls are a magnificent symbol of New England and a testament to the great fortitude and ingenuity of our ancestors. I’ve seen massive stones in some of these walls and wondered how they were transported and positioned without machinery. I appreciate the Herculean efforts of these early inhabitants and the beautiful structures they left behind, most of which are amazingly intact centuries after they were built.

I can’t imagine my native landscape without them and am doing what I can to showcase them as I’m truly fortunate to have so many bordering various areas of my property.

Last weekend, my sister and I spent a few hours cutting down trees, bittersweet, and wild rose bushes using hand clippers and a chainsaw. I was so intent on starting Saturday morning before it became too hot that I didn’t take as many before photos as I should have. Here are a few:

Yes, there really is a stone wall behind all that vegetation. A large stand of milkweed is on the right, out of frame. We spotted several monarch butterflies around the milkweed, as I’d hoped when I opted to leave the area unmowed, as further detailed in The Main Lawn post.
Here is a slightly different angle, taken after we’d already removed and stacked some brush. The fire pond is to the left, out of frame. The grass growing into the trees and brush was more than two feet tall a month ago. I plan to keep cutting it until I resembles standard lawn grass, as further detailed in my post about The Main Lawn.

Here are a few photos as the work is in progress last Saturday morning:

Cutting is the easy part, whether with clippers or a chainsaw. Pulling 20-foot long vines from around tree branches without breaking any branches is a lot more challenging. They can get really heavy when they’re fully leafed out. These invasive plants twist around and carve themselves into tree trunks as they grow to the top of the canopy, killing the trees if left unchecked.
There were many more piles of brush than what is shown here by the time we stopped cutting. Luckily, we were working in the shade. The fire pond is in the background; its southern end is left of center. From this position, you can see it a bit better in person.

After several breaks, we were done by 2:30pm then headed to our parents’ house just up the road. Although it was over 90 degrees we fired up our favorite hardwood briquets and rewarded ourselves with grilled bacon cheeseburgers on brioche buns. Grilled onions were a great addition. (The next day we ate the same meal and added fresh thyme to the onions – delicious!) But, I digress.

On Sunday morning, it was hot and humid before 9:00am, but I had to finish the job before midday due to travel plans. I usually remove whatever I’ve cut the same day I cut it but was too tired to do so on Saturday; I like to return to a “clean” work site even if the job isn’t entirely done just for the psychological boost of starting fresh. Also, I never know if weather or a personal or work situation will keep me away for weeks, and the site just looks better without a bunch of grass-killing debris all over.

Sadly, I lost the pin that secures the cart to the riding mower and didn’t realize it until that morning. Truly awful!

Determined, I dragged three big stacks of brush several hundred yards across a sun-soaked lawn and hayfield to an existing brush pile. It was going to be a rough morning, but I kept going.

My sister arrived right after my fourth haul and quickly assessed the situation. Instead of dragging the brush all that long way in the increasing heat, she said we should drag it to the corner of the lawn behind the stand of milkweed. We could then move it in the fall when I have my tree guy return to chip a lot of other cut trees.

As usual, her idea was brilliant.

We finished in about an hour, mostly working in the shade, with monarch butterflies flitting around the nearby milkweed.

I discovered a few things while working on this project:

First, I need to have more trees limbed this fall, both the white kousa dogwoods and the large deciduous trees behind them. The four or five dogwoods (one is “blooming” white in the photos below) are bent over because they’re growing into the lowest branches of the trees behind them. The dogwoods’ lowest branches are too low to the ground so the area still doesn’t look as clean as it should. Also, several of the large trees have dead branches still attached to them so they need to be removed for safety (and secondarily, aesthetic) reasons.

Second, I need to determine how or if the dogwood trees can be re-trained to grow straight again. They must have looked spectacular before they began to grow into their neighbors.

Lastly, I need to remove several branches that have fallen over the years, many of which are lying on or around the stone wall. A major downside to clearing property is that you can then see how much more work needs to be done.

I have to stress that I’m not trying to achieve a five-star resort appearance here. Neat and natural is my goal.

All in all, I’m pleased with how the area looks after 4-5 hours of work, and I’m thrilled to see that wall!

I’ll post more in-progress photos and hope to complete this project before peak foliage this fall.

Healthy Lawn Report: Brush Hogging Tall Grass (Video)

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Here’s a very short video of me brush hogging tall grass, wild rose bushes, and other vegetation at the end of the main lawn on July 3, 2019. What I’m cutting is about two feet tall. I’ve cleared more challenging areas, but unfortunately, I didn’t record it. It took less than an hour to work this 120’ L x 30’ W area, and it wasn’t that physically taxing.

I didn’t grow up using power tools or heavy equipment, and I’m not particularly strong, but I wanted to be as self-sufficient as possible when maintaining my property so I knew I had to identify, and learn how to use, a few critical items.

It Paid for Itself

The brush hog (or bush hog/brush cutter) was the first big-ticket item that I bought. I was worried that I wouldn’t be able to handle it, but I haven’t had any problems. I avoid rocky or boggy areas and growth that is bigger than what it’s manufactured to handle. It’s a critical piece of my property management arsenal, and I really enjoy using it.

By not having to pay landscapers, I figure that it paid for itself within a year or two, and I’m now in the black in terms of the money I’ve saved by continuing to clear my own property.

That’s the best part: every step I take is another dollar in my pocket!

A Brush Hog May Not Be Right for Everyone

Before deciding to buy my brush hog, I spoke with the prior owner of my property who told me that it was what they had long used to maintain several large areas. That pretty much settled the question of how I, in turn, would manage this land. Then I watched a lot of online videos of people brush hogging and read a lot of user reviews, always mindful of the reviewer’s apparent level of experience and what kind of plants they were cutting.

What to Consider Before Buying

Two major factors may make a brush hog an impractical choice for some:

First, brush hogs are expensive. I know “expensive” is a relative term, but the base price of entry level, name-brand models seems to be US$2,000 – $3,000, which is a substantial sum of money for the average person.

Second, depending on growth and terrain, using a brush hog can be arduous. If you want to clean up your severely overgrown property but don’t think you can handle hard physical labor, you may want to find someone trustworthy who can show you how to use a brush hog/bush hog/brush cutter, then rent one for a weekend and see how it goes. I opted to go straight to purchase. Note: Operating these machines can cause serious bodily injury, despite any built-in safety mechanisms. If you use one, you assume all risks.

An Ancient Agricultural Tool Could Be the Answer

If a brush hog isn’t a feasible option, an old-fashioned scythe could be a great alternative to cut tall grass. It’s much less expensive though it can be tiring to use as well – and dangerous. We had one of these very effective and beautiful hand tools when I was a kid (and I think it’s still in my parents’ garage so I will post a photo if I find it). When we were quite young, my siblings and I swung that thing on our back lawn after it had gone to pasture. I don’t remember any of us getting hurt using it, but I do not recommend that any minor use one. Plenty of adults probably shouldn’t use one either.

Let the Machine Do the Work

But, back to the brush hog, my tall grass conqueror of choice:

While standing in six-foot tall phragmites, an invasive perennial grass that I plan to eradicate, my brother gave me a 10-minute demonstration on how to operate my new brush hog. His key instruction was: “Let the machine do the work.”  It looked so easy!  But then again, he’s 6’3” and 250+ pounds and has worked with all kinds of machinery for decades. So, of course, I was a bit concerned that I’d be struggling every second that I used it.

At first, I found myself trying to push this several hundred pound beast through thick brush and uneven terrain, which was a huge mistake. Even now, I sometimes catch myself trying to muscle it but then I start repeating to myself, “Let the machine do the work.”

And that is precisely what I did in this video: